Scottish travel blog from an islander’s perspective
Shetland, Your Essential Travel Guide
After years of meticulous planning, research, and exploration, we are thrilled to announce the forthcoming release of our travel guide to Shetland. With stunning colour photographs and more than 250 pages brimming with useful information and insider tips, Shetland, Your Essential Travel Guide, is a labour of love, born from a shared dedication to showcasing the islands' natural beauty, intriguing history, and vibrant community life.
A guide to a day in Hoy and a walk to the ‘Old Man’
Orkney is a special island to Shetlanders; we share a ferry, an unreliable airline, Scandinavian ties and a friendly rivalry, which is amplified every time our football teams meet on the pitch.
Orkney, with a population of around 22,000, has about 70 islands, with 20 inhabited. Mainland Orkney can get busy during the high season, particularly on days when cruise liners visit, so it’s always worth considering an island trip. I’ve already written about our time in Westray, and in this blog, we explore Hoy.
Hiking Papa Stour’s dramatic west coast
A mile offshore from Sandness, accessible several times a week by ferry from West Burrafirth, is Papa Stour, known locally as Papa. The name comes from the Old Norse language, meaning ‘the great island of the priests’. The island is geologically fascinating, formed from volcanic ash and lava, which is a real gift to hikers seeking the drama, allure and breathtaking vistas offered by the incredible coastline.
This fertile and lush island had a population of 382 in 1841, which has declined steadily over the past 40 years. Today, the 15 or so permanent residents no longer have a school or shop, and there are few facilities on the island for visitors beyond the Ferry Waiting Room and church, which is undergoing renovation. Despite this, Papa is an island that calls to be explored, offering endless hours of enjoyment along its rugged coastline. The main settlement centres around the ferry harbour on the fertile east coast of the island at Housa Voe.
A day in Skerries
Out Skerries, known locally as Da Skerries or just Skerries, are a small low-lying trio of islands – Housay, Bruray and Grunay – that lies 13 miles off Shetland’s east coast, and four miles northeast of Whalsay. The coastline is a patchwork of small rocks and skerries that rise uncertainly from the sea on Shetland’s eastern horizon.
The island is home to around 30 people who are largely dependent on the fishing industry. Bruray and Housay are connected via a road bridge, and Grunay, which offers protection for the harbour, is now uninhabited, although the remains of the lighthouse buildings associated with the dominating Bound Skerry Lighthouse can still be seen across the harbour.
A walk to Levenwick Broch in Shetland’s South Mainland
The spectacular ruins of Levenwick Broch, one of around 120 known broch sites in Shetland, has always intrigued me, and I’m ashamed to say that, after driving up and down the A970 hundreds – if not thousands – of times, It’s taken me 35 years to get there.
Shetland’s haunted places
Tomorrow is hallowe’en, that time of the year when the veil between this world and the next is at its thinnest, and we can expect to experience the most paranormal activity. Shetland had its own unique blend of hallowe'en tradition influenced by Christianity, with its roots firmly placed in old pagan customs.
Peerie Bugarth self-catering holiday home; an itinerary for your Yell stay.
The beautiful Peerie Bugarth, a gem of a property available for holiday let in Mid Yell I often drive past traditional Shetland crofthouses and wonder what they’re like inside. These are buildings that have fascinated me since I was little. Their simple lines, symmetry, and the way they bed into the landscape almost seamlessly continues to inspire my imagination in the same – perhaps less visually attractive way – that they continue to inspire artists and poets to commi [...]
A weekend getaway and a walk to the Muckle Roe lighthouse
Busta House Hotel I woke on the night and heard footsteps – it was her – I nudged my husband and said, “ssshhh, can you hear her?”I was on high alert, we were staying in the West Wing of Busta House Hotel, and I knew that this was part of the building she haunted. Busta sits, tucked away on the shores of Busta Voe, just a few miles from the village of Brae. Today it’s a three-star hotel placed in an idyllic rural location in one of Shetland’s most b [...]
A walk to the Burraness Broch, Yell
Burraness Broch, Yell For visitors to Shetland, there are usually several requirements on their wish lists, including; scenery, wildlife and archaeology. The following walk is a fantastic way to explore all three of these on a moderate three-mile walk.For this walk, we walked to the Burraness Broch on the island of Yell. Yell is just a short hop across Yell Sound on the modern inter-island ferry. The crossing takes about 15 minutes, and passengers can stand on the upper deck, enjoying pa [...]
A walk to the Catalina crash site, Arisdale, Yell
Start the walk at Arisdale croft, Yell. You know that feeling, as the days start to change and the seasons begin to switch, it feels as though we’re falling into autumn at freefall speed. That’s when I anxiously try to squeeze in as much as possible, squeezing those last drops out of summer as if I were squeezing a lemon.August is a month that makes me uneasy; it feels like the best of the summer has passed. The flowers are spent and shrivelled on their once-proud stems, the [...]
A Walk to da Brigs o' Vementry
Da Brigs o' Vementry I recently posted our summer holiday bucket list; basically, a list of all the places we want to visit and things we’d like to do at home this summer. I included a checklist for anyone who wanted to join in the fun, and today we ticked off one from the list – a walk to the Brigs of Vementry.To get to the Brigs of Vementry, follow the A970 from Lerwick, turning onto the A971 at Tingwall. Drive for 16 miles before taking the B9071 towards Aith and Voe. Afte [...]
A walk to the Ness of Burgi, South Mainland
Ness of Burgi fort with Sumburgh Head in the background Last weekend we visited Sumburgh Head and the fantastic new Unken Caffee. With commanding views out to sea and north across the South Mainland, it got me thinking about how past people lived and about the architecture, defensive or otherwise, that they built here.Shetland’s South Mainland, at one time, was a highly fortified area. If we rewind about 2,000 years to the Iron Age and place ourselves at Sumburgh Head, the landscap [...]
A walk to the smugglers’ cave
The entrance to the Smugglers' Cave, Burra Winter can be a really special time to go for an adventure. On a cold, calm day, the air is crisp, and the low light casts dramatic shadows across the parched landscape. We’ve been fortunate this winter in that the ground has been frozen. If it’s not frozen, sticking to coastal routes can help keep feet warm and dry in Shetland’s (usually) wet winters.The smugglers’ cave in Burra is a brilliant walk to do with children be [...]
A winter walk around St Ninian’s Isle
St Ninian's Isle, Shetland, in winter It’s not often that January brings prolonged periods of still and frosty weather, but that’s exactly what we had here throughout January and, as we battle with homeschooling and the ever-present threat of cabin fever, it’s definitely nice to get out into the fresh air for a few hours.We recently walked around St Ninian’s Isle and, as well as being great for adults, this walk is also fantastic for anyone with children. It&rsquo [...]
Gifts from the sea
There is nothing better than coming back from the beach with sandy pockets, burgeoning with gifts from the sea but, as with everything, we must collect responsibly and always ask, ‘how will my actions impact the natural world around me?’ We are all magpies; we search for treasure, scouring the shoreline for a glittering shell or a salt-encrusted sea-worn pebble. And that’s fine, as long as we do so responsibly. ShellsShetland’s shores are a veritable treasure [...]
Understanding and respecting the Scottish Outdoor Access Code
A fire pit made using stones from historic buildings at Fethaland. Photo: David Murray This blog is a little reminder, and hopefully a helpful guide to accessing the outdoors safely and responsibly in Shetland. I first published this in the Shetland Times, our weekly newspaper, to raise awareness amongst locals. The message remains important to everyone visiting Shetland, particularly those who hope to access some of our many beauty spots.People are being urged to get-to-know the Scott [...]
Shetland with kids: A walk up the Burn of Valayre
The Burn of Valayre, Delting, Shetland. It strikes me that despite having children, I’ve never really written about things to see and do with them, so in this blog, I’ll share a short walk to do with kids. Many of the trails that I write about are long and involve carrying tired legs for a part, or all, of the way – great if you want to build muscle, not so great if you want to relax and soak in the scenery.Here in Shetland, we are just heading into the second week of [...]
A walk to Tingon, Northmavine
For those who want to dive a little deeper into the wild, Tingon, Northmavine is a great place to get-away-from-it-all.Tingon is a peninsula on Shetland’s rugged north-west coast. To the west is the North Atlantic, flanked by sheer cliffs that create an imposing barrier to any boats, and to the west, the skyline is dominated by Ronas Hill, Shetland’s highest point. Walk: 4 miles (6.5 km)Terrain: Fair, walking boots/hiking trainers would be best to wearTime: 3 hours (we sp [...]
The wildflowers of the simmer dim
Wildflowers at the Crofthouse Museum. There's a lot to smile about at the moment; we've just had the simmer dim (midsummer) where we enjoy 19 hours of daylight, but, more than that, the wildflowers have been putting on a tremendous show of colour this year. Shetland is an excellent place to see wildflowers, much of the reason for this lies in the rocks beneath our feet and the unique geology that makes up the islands. Geologically complicated, Shetland's geological landscape varies [...]
Shetland’s award-winning beaches
St Ninian's Isle beach in Shetland's South Mainland. Whether it’s hidden coves, sweeping sands or stony strands, Shetland has it all and, among the many beaches that make up Shetland’s breathtaking coastline, there are five that have been included in the national Beach Awards, part of the Keep Scotland Beautiful charity.These awards “are the benchmark for quality, celebrating clean, well managed and sustainable beaches.” Those selected “demonstrate excelle [...]
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In 2020, just before the world as we knew it drew to a standstill, my husband and I went to New York. We spent five days exploring the city and ticking off all the ‘must sees’ from the list. I spent months planning the trip in a notebook, and while we were there, I kept a little diary of our time. We did all the main attractions: Chrysler Building, the Empire State Building, the Flatiron Building, Madison and Times Square, Central Park, the Statue of Liberty, Brooklyn Bridge, DUMBO, Top of the Rock and much more besides.
I loved the few days we spent there, but a part of me felt that I could have planned it better.
But why am I telling you all this? When planning the trip, I felt overwhelmed and frustrated that nobody would prepare it for me, sit me down, and tell me what I needed to do to make the most of this beautiful city. I felt sure someone would offer a service to create a perfect New York itinerary tailored to my needs, but there wasn’t.