Scottish travel blog from an islander’s perspective
The thing I wish I’d had when I went to New York …
In 2020, just before the world as we knew it drew to a standstill, my husband and I went to New York. We spent five days exploring the city and ticking off all the ‘must sees’ from the list. I spent months planning the trip in a notebook, and while we were there, I kept a little diary of our time. We did all the main attractions: Chrysler Building, the Empire State Building, the Flatiron Building, Madison and Times Square, Central Park, the Statue of Liberty, Brooklyn Bridge, DUMBO, Top of the Rock and much more besides.
I loved the few days we spent there, but a part of me felt that I could have planned it better.
But why am I telling you all this? When planning the trip, I felt overwhelmed and frustrated that nobody would prepare it for me, sit me down, and tell me what I needed to do to make the most of this beautiful city. I felt sure someone would offer a service to create a perfect New York itinerary tailored to my needs, but there wasn’t.
A guide to Shetland’s museums & heritage centres
Despite its relatively small size, Shetland has an incredible number of cultural heritage centres, supported by a willing army of volunteers who are passionate about recording the past, telling and sharing Shetland’s history, and celebrating the stories and folklore of the islands. Shetland has a strong storytelling tradition, and much of its cultural heritage has been preserved, meaning there’s a vast swathe of information to be explored. It’s perhaps therefore not surprising that for a community so passionate about its heritage, and one steeped in thousands of years of human history, that there are so many museums and heritage centres to explore.
Smaller community museums and heritage centres offer unique and detailed insights into individual communities – from the fascinating links to the wider world and entrepreneurial people who made their mark on the international stage, to the individual communities and the details of what shaped them.
Accessibility in Shetland: all you need to know about accessible travel in Shetland
From your journey here to the most accessible venues, accommodation and tours for your stay, we’ve worked with Ability Shetland to put together a guide to accessibility in the islands.
Shetland’s contribution to modern medicine
Shetlanders have always had an entrepreneurial spirit, and a make-do-and-mend attitude that has allowed them to thrive and the 18th and 19th centuries saw some of Shetland’s greatest contributions to modern medicine.
In the 18th century, smallpox would tear through communities here, killing up to one third of the population, and one man, John Williamson, made a tremendous contribution to the islands, saving thousands of lives in the process.
John Williamson, better known as Johnnie Notions, was a self-taught man. A seaman and weaver to trade, he had a keen interest in medicine. He lived in the North Mainland at a time when smallpox often ripped through communities, brought in by seamen.
Shetland, Your Essential Travel Guide
After years of meticulous planning, research, and exploration, we are thrilled to announce the forthcoming release of our travel guide to Shetland. With stunning colour photographs and more than 250 pages brimming with useful information and insider tips, Shetland, Your Essential Travel Guide, is a labour of love, born from a shared dedication to showcasing the islands' natural beauty, intriguing history, and vibrant community life.
Whisky, castles, trains & bikes: A four-day family adventure in Moray Speyside
When you imagine Scotland, you think of quiet glens, river valleys, forests, gorges, lochs, and whisky that flows like water from tumbling burns. This is Moray Speyside; it’s a romantic image punctuated with visions of tartan-clad highlanders, heather, and ‘wild haggis’. It is liberally peppered with at least 50 malt whisky distilleries, making it one of the best-known regions, if less explored.
But we were here for more than just the uisge beatha, or ‘water of life’. Speyside is bursting with family-friendly activities and a drop or three of the strong stuff. This blog will show how you, too, can enjoy a family-friendly escape in Scotland’s whisky capital.
Exploring the Shetland Isles: A Caravan Adventure
The Shetland Isles, a remote and captivating archipelago located in the North Sea, are a hidden gem waiting to be explored. If you're an avid caravanner looking for a unique adventure, taking your caravan to Shetland is a fantastic idea. With stunning landscapes, rich history, and warm hospitality, Shetland offers a one-of-a-kind experience that you'll cherish forever. In this blog post, we'll guide you through the essential tips for taking your caravan to Shetland, including places to pitch, and highlight some must-visit destinations on the islands.
Book Review: Wild Shetland Through the Seasons
Brydon Thomason is a Fetlar-born Shetland naturalist who has spent decades in Shetland’s landscapes, photographing and observing the incredible wildlife of our islands. Brydon is also the owner of Shetland Nature, who run wildlife holidays and guided tours throughout Shetland, and this latest book showcases his incredible archive of photographs, along with his insights into the seasons which, as they change, bring different wildlife experiences with them.
The book itself is a work of art, featuring 80 species illustrated through 179 images across 286 pages and opening with an incredible double-page spread of a raft of eider ducks, commonly seen throughout the winter months around Shetland waters. The captivating photographs are brought to life with Brydon’s words that take the reader on a journey through Shetland’s seasonal wildlife highlights.
Foula’s Festive traditions & a guide to visiting
Lying about 20 miles west of Shetland, Foula is one of the UK’s most remote islands, and arguably the most isolated of any island in the UK. With a population of about 35, many thousands of birds, and five square miles to explore, Foula has an ‘edge of the world’ feel and will leave a lasting impression on those who visit.
Sitting alone in the vast, often unforgiving expanse of the North Atlantic, Foula looms from the horizon and is visible on a clear day from most parts of Shetland’s west coast. Its looming silhouette represents the last outpost of the UK, a final frontier. Echoing noisily with the sound of hundreds of thousands of seabirds in summer, and hard to access in winter as its name suggests – the word Foula comes from the Old Norse Fugley, meaning ‘bird island.’
A guide to a day in Hoy and a walk to the ‘Old Man’
Orkney is a special island to Shetlanders; we share a ferry, an unreliable airline, Scandinavian ties and a friendly rivalry, which is amplified every time our football teams meet on the pitch.
Orkney, with a population of around 22,000, has about 70 islands, with 20 inhabited. Mainland Orkney can get busy during the high season, particularly on days when cruise liners visit, so it’s always worth considering an island trip. I’ve already written about our time in Westray, and in this blog, we explore Hoy.
Spine-tingling tales from Lerwick
With Hallowe’en upon us, I wanted to take a look at some of the spine-tingling and tragic tales from Lerwick. Last year, I explored Shetland’s haunted places, and this year, I wanted to focus on our capital town, Lerwick. Lerwick grew from the 1600s with Dutch fishermen coming here every summer to begin their summer herring fishery. The first mention of Lerwick came in 1625 when the lawmakers in Scalloway expressed concern about the lawlessness displayed in Lerwick, where smuggling, drinking, theft, assault and prostitution were cited as grounds to raze Lerwick to the ground.
Why I’m not ashamed to visit Faroe
When I first announced on social media that I was visiting Faroe, I was met with the usual ill-informed judgement that so often blights this proud nation, which today is an independent territory belonging to Denmark. This is something I’d like to clear up at the outset before I dive into a blog about our time in the islands. I have based this response around a particularly vitriolic email I received and, to prevent any further ill-informed comments, I’ve embedded that response into my website, here, and invite you to read this before forming judgement based on propaganda.
Visiting Faroe — 7 tips for making your Faroe adventure memorable
Faroe sits at 62° north, halfway between Shetland and Iceland. Like Shetland, it’s an island archipelago comprising 18 significant islands and many smaller islands, rocks and skerries. Where relatively low-lying hills form Shetland, the terrain of Faroe is mountainous, imposing and almost impossible to farm. It’s a rugged country where communities are strung out along the shoreline at the head of deep fjords or bays, many of which are connected today by tunnels, forging routes through mountains and undersea. Yet, despite its harsh landscape and climate, the islands are home to a thriving community of around 54,000 people – almost twice the population of Shetland living in a similar-sized island group.
7 top tips for planning your Shetland Wool Week trip
As I write this, we are in the throes of the 14th Shetland Wool Week festival, which sees the arrival of knitters from all over the world in the islands to take part in the week-long celebration of Shetland’s textile heritage.
Wool Week is a hugely popular festival and marks the end of the busy summer season here in Shetland, and with this popularity comes high demand for accommodation, tickets and transport.
This blog is aimed at those planning to visit for Wool Week and how best to do this without too much stress!
Exploring the islands – Iona, Ulva and the Treshnish Isles
I adore islands and love nothing more than exploring new ones I’ve never experienced before. I love the process, the planning and poring over ferry timetables, checking weather updates and discovering what makes each island unique and special.
In June, we visited Mull, an ideal springboard for exploring several other islands in the region, including Iona, Ulva and the Treshnish Isles.
I hate the term’ island hopping’; it conjures up images of mindlessly ticking islands from a list in a cavalier-style bid to ‘see them all’. In a way, this is what we were doing, but I hope that this blog will provide a glimpse into what each of these islands is like, what makes them unique and why you should make an effort to visit and explore some of Scotland’s smaller islands in a more immersive way.
A week in Mull with Isle of Mull Cottages
I’m an island lass at heart. Islands run through my veins, and we were lucky enough to get the opportunity to spend some time exploring Mull recently. Islands provide an anchor to which I always return; they feel familiar and restorative – like home. The ever-present sea offers security and constancy in a fast-paced world. Islands allow me to slow down and breathe.
We spent our week with Mull Holiday Cottages, our trip coinciding with some of the best summer weather so far. Under the blue skies and turquoise waters of Mull, I was keen to explore these Inner Hebridean islands.
Hiking Papa Stour’s dramatic west coast
A mile offshore from Sandness, accessible several times a week by ferry from West Burrafirth, is Papa Stour, known locally as Papa. The name comes from the Old Norse language, meaning ‘the great island of the priests’. The island is geologically fascinating, formed from volcanic ash and lava, which is a real gift to hikers seeking the drama, allure and breathtaking vistas offered by the incredible coastline.
This fertile and lush island had a population of 382 in 1841, which has declined steadily over the past 40 years. Today, the 15 or so permanent residents no longer have a school or shop, and there are few facilities on the island for visitors beyond the Ferry Waiting Room and church, which is undergoing renovation. Despite this, Papa is an island that calls to be explored, offering endless hours of enjoyment along its rugged coastline. The main settlement centres around the ferry harbour on the fertile east coast of the island at Housa Voe.
A day in Skerries
Out Skerries, known locally as Da Skerries or just Skerries, are a small low-lying trio of islands – Housay, Bruray and Grunay – that lies 13 miles off Shetland’s east coast, and four miles northeast of Whalsay. The coastline is a patchwork of small rocks and skerries that rise uncertainly from the sea on Shetland’s eastern horizon.
The island is home to around 30 people who are largely dependent on the fishing industry. Bruray and Housay are connected via a road bridge, and Grunay, which offers protection for the harbour, is now uninhabited, although the remains of the lighthouse buildings associated with the dominating Bound Skerry Lighthouse can still be seen across the harbour.
A week in Mull & Iona
For this island adventure, we travelled to Mull. Mull is part of the Inner Hebrides and sits off the west coast of Scotland, with Islay, Jura and Colonsay to the south, Kerrera and Lismore to the east, Coll and Tiree to the west, and the uninhabited Treshnish Isles and Staffa. Mull is an island known for its wildlife, scenery and fascinating geology; it shares much of its allure with Shetland, yet is distinct and different in many ways, as we were to discover.
The Simmer Dim in Shetland
For as long as I can remember we have marked the passing of the longest day; whether that be a midnight walk to the top of a hill to watch the sun set and rise again, eating freshly caught mackerel straight from the sea, or a camping trip in a quiet valley listening to the call of the birds and watching as the mist rolls in over the hills like frosting.
Midsummer is the time around the summer solstice when the days melt into the night and the evenings remain still and light as the earth is bathed in a milky light which never really turns to darkness.
More about Shetland
Shetland is in my blood. Visit my blog for local insights, tips and advice.
In 2020, just before the world as we knew it drew to a standstill, my husband and I went to New York. We spent five days exploring the city and ticking off all the ‘must sees’ from the list. I spent months planning the trip in a notebook, and while we were there, I kept a little diary of our time. We did all the main attractions: Chrysler Building, the Empire State Building, the Flatiron Building, Madison and Times Square, Central Park, the Statue of Liberty, Brooklyn Bridge, DUMBO, Top of the Rock and much more besides.
I loved the few days we spent there, but a part of me felt that I could have planned it better.
But why am I telling you all this? When planning the trip, I felt overwhelmed and frustrated that nobody would prepare it for me, sit me down, and tell me what I needed to do to make the most of this beautiful city. I felt sure someone would offer a service to create a perfect New York itinerary tailored to my needs, but there wasn’t.