10 things to know about visiting Shetland
Mousa Broch
Accommodation books up fast
I meet many people online during travel consultations who are planning to visit Shetland, and many of them are surprised to hear that accommodation books up very quickly. When planning a trip to Shetland, book your accommodation at least 8-12 months in advance of your visit.
Shetland is a popular destination, and although it never feels ‘crowded’, accommodation is much sought after. We have a lot of industry in the isles which places additional demands on accommodation, so it is important to book accommodation first – then you can go ahead and book your travel to and from the islands. Don’t worry if travel bookings for the ferry haven’t opened up yet; the important first stage is to lock in that accommodation.
When booking accommodation, it’s important to consider what kind of accommodation you want. Here are a few questions to ask yourself:
Firstly, think about where you want to stay – do you want to be in town where you can get an evening meal each night, or do you want to wake up to the sound of the countryside? Do you want to base yourself on the mainland or on one of the outer isles?
Do you want breakfast included? If so, consider the guest houses and B&Bs. I particularly recommend Ortolan B&B & Fort Charlotte Guest House..
Do you want all meals included? If yes, check out some of our hotels outside Lerwick; I love Busta House Hotel, and St. Magnus Bay Hotel will keep you very well fed and is an excellent base for a walking holiday in the north.
Do you want a ‘whole house’ where you can feel at home and prepare your own meals? There are so many to choose from, and Airbnb is a good place to look – some of my favourites on the Mainland are: The Taing, Ingrid’s Self Catering & Westshore – if you want a self-catering in the heart of Lerwick, check out Shetland Seawinds or Luxury Apartments Shetland.
For accommodation in Unst, I love Shorehaven and the Boatman’s House
For something different and a little quirky, check out Shetland Glamping and the Peerie Neuk in Unst.
For accommodation: www.stay.shetland.org/guide
I have many accommodation reviews on my website, which you can access by clicking the link below:
Enjoying a hiking day in Skerries
Shetland has 16 inhabited islands
From Fair Isle in the south, and Out Stack in the north, Shetland is about 100 miles (160km) long and, at its widest, 26 miles (51km) across (from the Dale of Walls in the west to Lunna Ness in the east) – but in places such as Mavis Grind, it narrows to just 70 metres from sea to sea – but nowhere in Shetland are you more than 2.5 miles (4km) from the sea. Geographically, Shetland from above resembles a jigsaw puzzle, formed by a range of ancient hills standing on the continental shelf partly drowned when the last period of glaciation retreated, 10,000 to 12,000 years ago. The coastline is a series of nesses (headlands), wicks (bays) and voes (inlets).
Shetland has 16 inhabited islands and you likely won’t have time to visit them all so think carefully about which ones you want to visit, taking into account your interests and your ‘wishlist’ of things you’d like to see and experience.
Shetland’s inhabited islands by approximate population:
Shetland Mainland (18,765) – this is where most people will base themselves to explore the whole of Shetland.
Whalsay (1,000) – best known for its unique dialect and thriving fishing industry. Accessible by ferry (25 mins from Laxo).
Yell (950) – watch out for sheep on the road as you drive through! Yell is the largest island, after the mainland, and has some fantastic coastal walks.
West Burra (800) – connected by road bridge to the mainland and Trondra, Burra has a picture-perfect harbour and some great beaches.
Unst (600) – a two-ferry hop from the mainland, Unst has the ‘most northerly’ everything and some incredible Viking sites.
Bressay (360) – easily-accessible from Lerwick, and only 7 minutes on the ferry, Bressay has some excellent walks and a weekly Parkrun.
Trondra (135) – accessible by road bridge, you’ll recognise several Shetland TV series filming locations on this island.
Muckle Roe (130) – accessible by road bridge with one of Shetland’s best hikes out to the Hams of Roe.
East Burra (80) – accessible by road bridge and bursting with talented craft makers.
Fetlar (50) – You’ll take two ferries to get to Fetlar, which has some excellent wildlife opportunities and a quieter feel to the other North Isles.
Fair Isle (50) – accessible by ferry or plane, Fair Isle is the most geographically remote island in the UK. Famous for its knitwear and wildlife, Fair Isle is a gem.
Foula (35) – accessible by ferry or plane, Foula is arguably the most remote island in the UK. Famous for its sea cliffs and wildlife, Foula is a real adventure!
Housay (Out Skerries) (20) – Accessible by ferry (1.5 hours), Skerries is a fascinating island to walk and discover, with a rich history of fishing, smuggling and shipwrecks, there’s much to explore.
Bruray (Out Skerries) (19) – as above (these two islands are connected by bridge)
Papa Stour (15) – one of the best islands for hiking, with dramatic coastlines and breathtaking scenery, Papa is accessible by ferry.
Vaila (one household) – this island has no public transport links.
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Midsummer in Shetland
We have two seasons – summer and winter!
It often feels like Shetland only has two seasons – summer and winter. Without many trees, autumn, with its final flush or russet colour, feels like it misses us as the winter gales roll in from September. Spring is slow to emerge – the saying goes: spring comes rolling in over the moss, while autumn comes galloping in on a horse…
Don’t plan a camping trip in spring –r spring still feels very much like winter (I’m talking from experience of camping in March). Similarly, September and October can be lovely, but they can also be fairly stormy as the seasons change, bringing winter at an accelerated pace on the prevailing southwest winds.
A winter day in Lerwick (we actually don’t get a lot of snow!)
You don’t have to jump around to see it all
You can base yourself in one place for the duration of your stay, avoiding the need to pack and repack every few days. I repeat: you can stay in only one place and see everything you want, so save the hassle and choose one base.
The only caveat to this is that, if you want to make the most of the North Isles, it’s best to base yourself there as, from Lerwick, you’re looking at a 4-hour round trip to get to and from Unst. Why not spend half the trip on the mainland and half the trip in Yell or Unst? – if you’re here for 10 days, spend a week in the mainland and three days in Unst?
Cruise ships in Lerwick Harbour
We get a lot of cruise ships
Cruise tourism is crucial to the local economy, and despite having over 100 cruise calls each year, Shetland never feels crowded or overly busy. Yes, you will struggle to find somewhere to eat in Lerwick on busy cruise days, but you can also escape the town and visit somewhere else when cruise ships are in town.
I suggest visiting Lerwick on a day when the cruise ships are not in port.
You can check which days cruise ships are visiting here.
Many people who visit Shetland on a cruise come back again after falling in love with the islands — and many have made multiple return trips after discovering it on a cruise. If you are visiting on a cruise, I would recommend taking a shore-based excursion out of Lerwick — the guides are fantastic, and you will see a fantastic snapshot of Shetland, which will leave you longing for more!
There are only two ways to get to Shetland – by boat or by plane
Whether you choose the ferry or the plane, the journey to Shetland can be as memorable as your stay – that first glance of the harbour at Lerwick in the early-morning light or the stunning landscape of Sumburgh Head seen from above.
NorthLink Ferries
There are daily overnight sailings between Shetland and Aberdeen. Crossings take between 12 and 14 hours, calling in at Kirkwall, Orkney, on alternate evenings. You can travel with a vehicle or as a foot passenger (www.northlinkferries.co.uk).
Loganair
Sumburgh Airport handles several flights a day operated by Loganair (www.loganair.co.uk)
from Aberdeen, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness, Kirkwall and Manchester. Twice-weekly flights fly to Dundee and London throughout the year and to Bergen during the summer. Customers booking through British Airways (BA) can participate in the codeshare agreement between these airlines, meaning that you can book all the way through to Shetland and, if problems arise, BA will deal with the logistics and resolve any issues.
Many venues close down for the winter
Many of the attractions close down from autumn until spring, and the weather can be wet, windy and cold. Winter does bring its own magic, however: the chance of spotting the Northern Lights, fewer visitors, and the occasional crystal-clear, frosty day as a contrast to the often persistent cyclonic storms that pass through.
Many community museums, heritage centres, tours and cafes are seasonal, opening between May and the end of September, but there are still a few museums and heritage centres which are open in the winter, including:
Shetland Museum & Archives
Jarlshof Prehistoric Site
Hoswick Visitor Centre
Muness Castle
Skidblanir Longship and Longhouse
Many archaeological sites are accessible all year round as they don’t have admission fees or any tourism infrastructure, including:
Viking Unst
Clickimin Broch
Culswick Broch
St Ninian’s Isle Chapel Site
Puffins are only here during the summer
Shetland’s auks – puffins, guillemots, razorbills and black guillemots – mate for life and return to the same nest site every spring. Puffins, with their comical behaviour and distinctive, colourful bills, are quite the cliff-side showstopper. Outside the short breeding season (April-August), the puffins return to the sea, spending the winter in the North Atlantic. Puffins are best seen at Sumburgh Head, Hermaness and Noss, but can be seen from many of Shetland’s more exposed coastlines, between mid-April and mid-August.
Book trips and tours in advance
If visiting in the busy summer season, it’s a good idea to book some trips and tours in advance. If you are planning to use a local guide, book at least six months in advance as guides become booked up very quickly. Mousa Boat’s storm petrel trips also book up months in advance. Most inter-island ferries (other than Bressay ferry) can be booked a couple of months before you arrive, and if you know which days you plan to travel, it's a good idea to book your space to ensure that you can travel at the time you want as spaces may be limited in high season and at peak times. When you arrive, it’s a good idea to book evening meals as restaurants are very busy, particularly throughout the summer and during the busy festivals (Up Helly Aa and Wool Week).
Spend more time!
Most people leave wishing that they had spent longer, and will return year after year. I would advise staying for a minimum of one week – and two weeks if you have the time available.
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