11 ways to make the most of your ski trip; skiing in Norway's 60 degrees north
I’ve always been drawn to northern places; perhaps it’s the familiarity or the sting of cold air on red cheeks, or possibly it’s the comparisons that can be drawn between my northerly place and another. Whatever the reason, the North Atlantic region and those areas that share a space on the latitude line with us fascinate me.
I’ve ventured to Iceland, Faroe and the far-flung St Kilda archipelago during my travels. All these places left a lasting impression on me in ways that more southern areas just don’t (sorry to those in the south, but the north just strikes a chord and stirs somewhere deep within my soul).
In his book, 60 Degrees North: Around the World in Search of Home (Polygon,2016), Malachy Tallack writes that “Sixty degrees north is a story that we tell, both to ourselves and to others. It is a story about where – and perhaps also who – we are”. He continues: “To highlight it is to assert that this is not just a forgotten corner of the British Isles; Shetland belongs also to something else, something bigger. Once it was the geographical heart of the North Atlantic empire…” (you can read more about how Shetland was pledged to Scotland here.)
Malachy says, “Unlike political or cultural geographies, the sixtieth parallel is certain and resolute; it is impervious to the whims of history. Shetland belongs to the north, upon this line with no corners to which it may be consigned. At sixty degrees, Shetland is as central as anywhere and everywhere else.”
Last week, we stuck to our parallel line and headed 300 or so miles east of Shetland to the small town of Geilo, home to Norway’s best ski resort. Geilo sits almost halfway between Oslo and Bergen on the beautiful scenic train line which weaves through the mountains, connecting two of Norway’s most important economic and commercial centres. Home to just 2,500 or so residents, Geilo is flanked by mountains and sits at a latitude of 60.5334414 – similar to Lerwick, 60.152988.
The weather is the most significant difference between our two spots on the latitude line. Shetland has a temperate maritime climate, meaning that we have mild summers and mild winters. Despite sitting at the same latitude as Geilo – as well as St Petersburg, Helsinki, and the Alaskan city of Anchorage – Shetland doesn’t experience the same extreme temperatures. Shetland is about 10℃ milder than Geilo in winter and experiences very little prolonged snowfall. Geilo’s temperatures range between -2℃ and minus 11℃ in February, compared to Shetland’s monthly average of 5℃. Our temperate, mild winters are thanks to the warming effects of the North Atlantic Drift, a sea current that passes through the islands, cutting short otherwise prolonged frosts.
Geilo sits high above sea level, enjoying “proper” seasons. Deep inland from the sea and its warming effect, Geilo sits under a blanket of snow each winter, with an average of 288 cm of snow annually. The town is 800m above sea level, with the highest peak in the region at 1,933 metres. In contrast, Shetland is an archipelago of low-lying hills that rise from the North Atlantic. The islands’ low topography (with no peak higher than 450m) and the warming sea currents are why Shetland doesn’t experience a lot of snow in winter. Where Geilo enjoys settled, still weather, Shetland experiences many violent storms. The warming effect of the sea produces cyclonic weather systems that build to the southwest, giving unsettled periods of low pressure – Geilo records 37 snow days each year. In contrast, the Lerwick Observatory records an average of 42 gale days a year in Shetland, with no month free of gales.
So what did I learn about skiing, here are some tips for your ski trip to Geilo:
Pack less
Packing less for a colder climate sounds counterintuitive due to the freezing temperatures, but we didn’t wear half the clothes we packed. Without the skull-numbing wind chill and high humidity that we experience in Shetland, it didn’t feel too cold.
For the slopes, I wore a thermal base layer (leggings and a long-sleeved top) and an extra jumper under my ski suit when required.
I definitely appreciated having shoulder straps on my ski trousers to keep them in place, and the set I bought was from Revolution Race. The ski jacket was the Halo 2L Insulated Ski Jacket (Bruschetta/Dusty Green)
And the trousers were the Halo 2l Insulated Ski Trousers (Peyote)
The ski helmet (which I hired) provided enough head warmth that I never needed a hat, and a snood could be pulled over my face when skiing into the chill wind.
Packing list:
Ski suit
Thermal base layer
Jumper
Snood
Ski socks (I took 4 pairs for 6 days)
Gloves and goggles – you’ll need a decent pair of thick gloves with long cuffs and a pair of ski goggles to cut out the glare on the slopes.
Sunglasses
Sun cream
Swimsuit — Scandinavia is the spiritual home of the sauna, and it was the perfect place to unwind after a day on the slopes
Read about the benefits of sauna here.In the evenings I wore jeans and a woollen jumper along with my ski jacket if we were heading out.
Next year, when we return, I’m buying a pair of Moon Boots. Everyone in Norway was wearing them, and I love them!
Geilo Sports is worth a visit if you plan on buying any ski gear – they will fit you and advise on the best options for you. You can also claim back the tax on any purchases at the airport when you leave, allowing a nice little saving on gear! I actually did buy a pair of ski boots.
2. Book some ski lessons
As someone who had never skied before, I absolutely cannot stress enough the importance of lessons! I booked 5 days in group lessons for beginners and an additional two hours with a 1:1 instructor, which was invaluable for getting me to the top of the mountain and building on the skills I’d learnt in the class. It’s also a good way to boost your confidence, particularly if you are apprehensive about skiing.
3. If travelling with children: book them lessons and ski play.
The same applies if you’re travelling with children, so book lessons for them. I’d also recommend booking them into Ski Play, which helps build on their skills and confidence and allows parents the chance to practice. (Children pick it up much faster than adults)!
4. Sun cream and shades
Yes! You’re going to need sun cream. Although it’s not hot, the higher altitude means the atmosphere is thinner and filters less UV rays. You’re not only exposed to more harmful UV radiation, but the sun reflects from the snow, doubling your exposure to UV light. I made the mistake of foregoing the suncream on an overcast day and burnt. Lesson learnt.
With all the sun reflecting on white snow, you’ll also need a good quality pair of sunglasses for your après-ski drink.
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5. Know your vital stats before you go
Weigh yourself and take your height and shoe size (and that of your children) before you go. When you hire ski equipment (skis, boots and helmet), you’ll need to know your body stats so that they can match you with the right size of ski and a snug-fitting boot.
6. trust your skis!
This is the mantra that I repeated over and over again when I was throwing myself down the mountain. As every fibre in my being was questioning my actions, I repeated what my instructor drilled into me — trust the skis.
7. Stop and turn
Before heading off on the chair lift to the top, practice on the nursery slopes (or bunny slopes) until you are confident that you know how to stop and how to turn — and don’t forget your “pizza” (you’ll learn this in your first lesson!)
8. Breathe, hydrate and visit the Vinmonopolet
It sounds daft, but remember to breathe when you set off down the hill, otherwise your body will tense and you won’t control your skis properly.
You also need to remember to drink plenty of water as you will sweat, even in the cold!
If you want to buy wine or spirits, you’ll need to find the Vinmonopolet. Vinmonopolet has the exclusive right to sell spirits, wine and strong beer to consumers, and is a wholly state-owned limited company – supermarkets are only licensed to sell beer and lager.
9. Book everything before you go, and be prepared for extra costs
We booked a ski holiday with Crystal Ski, staying in the Highland Lodge. We loved it so much that we’ve booked again — we had a self-catering apartment within the complex, with access to the two on-site restaurants, bakery (serving the best pastries), swimming pool, sauna, gym and playroom.
When you book, ensure that you also book and pay for:Ski lessons
Ski Play (if travelling with children)
Ski passes for everyone in your group (these gave us access to various ski resorts around Geilo, operated by Ski Geilo)
Equipment: you’ll need skis, boots, a helmet and, if you already know how to ski, ski poles (these aren’t advised for beginners)
10. Push yourself
I am the world’s biggest wimp, and I really had to push myself beyond my comfort zone, but, once I reached the top of the mountain and got a glass of wine with those views, I was beyond proud of myself.
11. Soak it all in and enjoy!
The main thing is to have fun and enjoy the experience, whether you’re an absolute beginner or a seasoned skier, Geilo really does offer something for everyone. It is a family-friendly resort which is ideal for the whole family to enjoy.
There are a range of other snowy activities on offer — which we never even tried — including, dog sledding, cross country skiing, night skiing, sledding and much more besides.
A week wasn’t long enough and we can’t wait to return next year.
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