Scottish travel blog from an islander’s perspective
A guide to a day in Hoy and a walk to the ‘Old Man’
Orkney is a special island to Shetlanders; we share a ferry, an unreliable airline, Scandinavian ties and a friendly rivalry, which is amplified every time our football teams meet on the pitch.
Orkney, with a population of around 22,000, has about 70 islands, with 20 inhabited. Mainland Orkney can get busy during the high season, particularly on days when cruise liners visit, so it’s always worth considering an island trip. I’ve already written about our time in Westray, and in this blog, we explore Hoy.
A day in Westray, Orkney’s Queen o’ the isles
Orkney’s sixth-largest island, Westray, packs a real punch. Bursting with life and brimming with wildlife, it has retained its sense of identity and feels the most ‘Orcadian’ of all the islands we visited, with a distinct sense of community.
Westray can feel remote from Kirkwall’s ‘bright lights’ but is only a short hop by air or sea.
Flanked by wild Atlantic waters, Westray’s coastline offers some of Orkney’s best seascapes and dramatic cliffs. The island has a busy and vibrant feel with sweeping sandy beaches and a gentle, fertile interior dominated by farming.
Orkney’s lesser-known Neolithic sites
Orkney is perhaps best-known for its mind-blowing Neolithic archaeology that continues to rewrite much of what we know about prehistoric Britain, so much so that, in 1999, UNESCO designated World Heritage status to what has colloquially become known as the Heart of Neolithic Orkney.
After years of meticulous planning, research, and exploration, we are thrilled to announce the forthcoming release of our travel guide to Shetland. With stunning colour photographs and more than 250 pages brimming with useful information and insider tips, Shetland, Your Essential Travel Guide, is a labour of love, born from a shared dedication to showcasing the islands' natural beauty, intriguing history, and vibrant community life.
The Shetland Isles, a remote and captivating archipelago located in the North Sea, are a hidden gem waiting to be explored. If you're an avid caravanner looking for a unique adventure, taking your caravan to Shetland is a fantastic idea. With stunning landscapes, rich history, and warm hospitality, Shetland offers a one-of-a-kind experience that you'll cherish forever. In this blog post, we'll guide you through the essential tips for taking your caravan to Shetland, including places to pitch, and highlight some must-visit destinations on the islands.
Brydon Thomason is a Fetlar-born Shetland naturalist who has spent decades in Shetland’s landscapes, photographing and observing the incredible wildlife of our islands. Brydon is also the owner of Shetland Nature, who run wildlife holidays and guided tours throughout Shetland, and this latest book showcases his incredible archive of photographs, along with his insights into the seasons which, as they change, bring different wildlife experiences with them.
The book itself is a work of art, featuring 80 species illustrated through 179 images across 286 pages and opening with an incredible double-page spread of a raft of eider ducks, commonly seen throughout the winter months around Shetland waters. The captivating photographs are brought to life with Brydon’s words that take the reader on a journey through Shetland’s seasonal wildlife highlights.
Lying about 20 miles west of Shetland, Foula is one of the UK’s most remote islands, and arguably the most isolated of any island in the UK. With a population of about 35, many thousands of birds, and five square miles to explore, Foula has an ‘edge of the world’ feel and will leave a lasting impression on those who visit.
Sitting alone in the vast, often unforgiving expanse of the North Atlantic, Foula looms from the horizon and is visible on a clear day from most parts of Shetland’s west coast. Its looming silhouette represents the last outpost of the UK, a final frontier. Echoing noisily with the sound of hundreds of thousands of seabirds in summer, and hard to access in winter as its name suggests – the word Foula comes from the Old Norse Fugley, meaning ‘bird island.’
With Hallowe’en upon us, I wanted to take a look at some of the spine-tingling and tragic tales from Lerwick. Last year, I explored Shetland’s haunted places, and this year, I wanted to focus on our capital town, Lerwick. Lerwick grew from the 1600s with Dutch fishermen coming here every summer to begin their summer herring fishery. The first mention of Lerwick came in 1625 when the lawmakers in Scalloway expressed concern about the lawlessness displayed in Lerwick, where smuggling, drinking, theft, assault and prostitution were cited as grounds to raze Lerwick to the ground.
As I write this, we are in the throes of the 14th Shetland Wool Week festival, which sees the arrival of knitters from all over the world in the islands to take part in the week-long celebration of Shetland’s textile heritage.
Wool Week is a hugely popular festival and marks the end of the busy summer season here in Shetland, and with this popularity comes high demand for accommodation, tickets and transport.
This blog is aimed at those planning to visit for Wool Week and how best to do this without too much stress!
A mile offshore from Sandness, accessible several times a week by ferry from West Burrafirth, is Papa Stour, known locally as Papa. The name comes from the Old Norse language, meaning ‘the great island of the priests’. The island is geologically fascinating, formed from volcanic ash and lava, which is a real gift to hikers seeking the drama, allure and breathtaking vistas offered by the incredible coastline.
This fertile and lush island had a population of 382 in 1841, which has declined steadily over the past 40 years. Today, the 15 or so permanent residents no longer have a school or shop, and there are few facilities on the island for visitors beyond the Ferry Waiting Room and church, which is undergoing renovation. Despite this, Papa is an island that calls to be explored, offering endless hours of enjoyment along its rugged coastline. The main settlement centres around the ferry harbour on the fertile east coast of the island at Housa Voe.
Out Skerries, known locally as Da Skerries or just Skerries, are a small low-lying trio of islands – Housay, Bruray and Grunay – that lies 13 miles off Shetland’s east coast, and four miles northeast of Whalsay. The coastline is a patchwork of small rocks and skerries that rise uncertainly from the sea on Shetland’s eastern horizon.
The island is home to around 30 people who are largely dependent on the fishing industry. Bruray and Housay are connected via a road bridge, and Grunay, which offers protection for the harbour, is now uninhabited, although the remains of the lighthouse buildings associated with the dominating Bound Skerry Lighthouse can still be seen across the harbour.
For as long as I can remember we have marked the passing of the longest day; whether that be a midnight walk to the top of a hill to watch the sun set and rise again, eating freshly caught mackerel straight from the sea, or a camping trip in a quiet valley listening to the call of the birds and watching as the mist rolls in over the hills like frosting.
Midsummer is the time around the summer solstice when the days melt into the night and the evenings remain still and light as the earth is bathed in a milky light which never really turns to darkness.
A few weeks ago, we were invited to come and stay at Shetland Glamping’s beautiful new pods at Rerwick. Enjoying incredible sea views across rolling countryside and out to sea, Shetland Glamping is the hottest new accommodation offering in Shetland’s South Mainland. After opening last summer, the guest book in our pod Shalder was already bursting with rave reviews for their luxurious ‘Mega Bunker’ Glamping Pods.
Farewell Fugley Island was written by Alec Crawford and published by the Shetland Times in 2022. Alec, a wreck diver, arrived in Foula in the 1970s and spent six years living and working in the island, salvaging precious wreck material from the remains of the great liner Oceanic that was lost during the First World War.
The book is more a social history account of life on the island in the 1970s than an examination of diving the wreck. Examining a time of significant change on the island, Alec arrived as the last of the island’s cows were sold, and the community shop was set to close. Several young people had left, leaving a question mark over the future viability of this remote island that marks Shetland’s western horizon.
Shorehaven, where we were to spend the weekend, dates back to 1854 when Hermaness Lighthouse was built to aid navigation. Clinging to the hostile slopes of Muckle Flugga, a rocky outcrop off the north coast of Unst, Britain's most northerly lighthouse still shines a guiding light across the water to those at sea – Shorehaven forms part of the story of this iconic lighthouse.
The spectacular ruins of Levenwick Broch, one of around 120 known broch sites in Shetland, has always intrigued me, and I’m ashamed to say that, after driving up and down the A970 hundreds – if not thousands – of times, It’s taken me 35 years to get there.
Throughout Shetland, from January to March, the islands celebrate the festival of Up Helly Aa, with 12 Fire Festival and Up Helly Aa celebrations punctuating the darkness of winter with fiery processions, Viking dress and the world-renowned all-night parties that follow the burning of a Viking longship.
In a few days time, just as we are taking down the Christmas decorations, and boxing them up for another year, Foula, our most westerly island will celebrate Christmas.
In the past, Christmas in Shetland meant something very different; we even held it on a different day. Known as Yule, it was a time of celebration and tradition, much of it stemming from pagan rituals and beliefs.
Today, Foula is one of the last places to celebrate the old calendar dates for Christmas and New Year celebrations, on the 6th and 13th of January.
The Peerie Neuk is a tiny “hut” in Unst and part of the tiny-house movement. This architectural and social movement advocates downsizing living spaces, simplifying interiors and living with less. As someone who resides in a constant state of clutter and chaos, kicking off my boots at the door of The Peerie Neuk was nothing short of cathartic!
Tomorrow is hallowe’en, that time of the year when the veil between this world and the next is at its thinnest, and we can expect to experience the most paranormal activity. Shetland had its own unique blend of hallowe'en tradition influenced by Christianity, with its roots firmly placed in old pagan customs.
Puffins are one of the Northern Isles’ best-loved summer visitors who arrive back from winter at sea to nest between April and mid-August. Sumburgh Head is the most accessible place to see them without having a lengthy walk. The nature reserves of Hermaness and Noss are also excellent places to look out for these charismatic little seabirds.
"We never feel like we own it; we are custodians looking after it for the future," Rachael told me as she explained the history and her deep-seated love of the Boatman's House.
The days are changing as the seasons switch. And, like a light that’s shut off, it feels as though the dial has been turned to autumn as summer fades into memory once more. The nights are visibly darker, and the air has changed; there’s a sting in its embrace, and I feel myself turning my collar against it.Yet, despite this change, the daylight is still long enough to make the most of the fine days, and the chill in the wind isn’t enough to leave us lounging by the fir [...]
Symbister Harbour, Whalsay Every great adventure starts with a boat, surely? It certainly feels like that as you dart north, rushing to make the ferry on time, watching the clock anxiously and praying you don't meet a tractor en route.The Whalsay ferry has an altogether different feel to the North Isles ferries; the journey is longer, and booking is strongly recommended if you want to ensure you arrive – and depart – on the ferry you've chosen. It also has a more 'Shetland' f [...]
My creations from a recent Island Ceramics glazing workshop in Yell I often hear visitors say that they’re going to Unst, but they’re not stopping in Yell; they’re just driving through the island to reach the ferry. This is a mistake. Whatever you do on your visit to Shetland, don’t make the mistake of dismissing Yell, as you are guaranteed to have an excellent experience if you do choose to stay – even for just a few hours! I recently had an excellent [...]
The beautiful Peerie Bugarth, a gem of a property available for holiday let in Mid Yell I often drive past traditional Shetland crofthouses and wonder what they’re like inside. These are buildings that have fascinated me since I was little. Their simple lines, symmetry, and the way they bed into the landscape almost seamlessly continues to inspire my imagination in the same – perhaps less visually attractive way – that they continue to inspire artists and poets to commi [...]
The Old Manse Holiday home is the white house in the centre, beside the former Clousta church.“The winding voes and lakes of Clousetter, are wildly disordered by the irregular encroachments of the hills among which they run. Nature, from mere rocks and water, without the assistance of a single tree, has presented ceaseless varieties of interesting scenery.” ~ Samuel Hibbert (1818)Clousta is an ‘old place’ – it has that sense, as if you’ve suddenly stumbled off the map. It’s a beaut [...]
Impressive sights from the Gannet colony at Noss with Seabirds & Seals If you're looking to experience some of Shetland's incredible wildlife, you definitely need to add a trip to Noss to your list of things to see and do in Shetland. Joining Seabirds & Seals recently, I was able to 'act the tourist' for a morning and witness the incredible gannet colonies of Noss. The experience is an astonishing spectacle – the natural world's equivalent of a teeming seabird a [...]
I know what it's like when planning for a holiday – so many questions and no one place where you can find the much sought after answers. I spend a lot of time answering questions online, whether on Instagram or my Patreon page. A lot of the time, it's the same questions that come up time and time again.I've done several podcasts on my Patreon page that cover many of the frequently asked questions in depth (you can see the topics covered here). The following are some of the general [...]
St Ninian's Isle, Shetland in her spring colours Sunday marks the first day of spring, and to mark this calendar milestone, I’ve been thinking about what makes spring such an exciting time of year and why you should consider a springtime break to Shetland.As the days begin to lengthen and the dark grip of winter is slowly released, shadows shorten as the sun rises higher in our northern skies, and there’s real optimism in the air. There’s an urgency to the days as peopl [...]
Ah, what a read, what a joy – Aye Someane Deid, Aye Someane Boarn – is the literary equivalent of a big bosie [hug] with an old and trusted friend. After the rush of Christmas, I read this book in the long month of January and what a tonic Barbara’s words were. She left me laughing, smiling, and longing for more.There are many fantastic books published in Shetland and, with Scotland's Year of Stories kicking off, I thought it was a good opportunity to review Barbara Fr [...]
Shifting light in winter at Bressay Lighthouse If I had a penny for every time I was asked about winter in Shetland, I’d be a millionaire – and then some – and there are many reasons to visit, but you need to ask yourself first ‘what do I want from a visit’. If the answer is puffins, light, activities, and long hikes with a picnic, you’ll likely want to visit in summer when the days are long, and the hills are dry enough to walk anywhere. If you&r [...]
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After years of meticulous planning, research, and exploration, we are thrilled to announce the forthcoming release of our travel guide to Shetland. With stunning colour photographs and more than 250 pages brimming with useful information and insider tips, Shetland, Your Essential Travel Guide, is a labour of love, born from a shared dedication to showcasing the islands' natural beauty, intriguing history, and vibrant community life.
When you imagine Scotland, you think of quiet glens, river valleys, forests, gorges, lochs, and whisky that flows like water from tumbling burns. This is Moray Speyside; it’s a romantic image punctuated with visions of tartan-clad highlanders, heather, and ‘wild haggis’. It is liberally peppered with at least 50 malt whisky distilleries, making it one of the best-known regions, if less explored.
But we were here for more than just the uisge beatha, or ‘water of life’. Speyside is bursting with family-friendly activities and a drop or three of the strong stuff. This blog will show how you, too, can enjoy a family-friendly escape in Scotland’s whisky capital.
The Shetland Isles, a remote and captivating archipelago located in the North Sea, are a hidden gem waiting to be explored. If you're an avid caravanner looking for a unique adventure, taking your caravan to Shetland is a fantastic idea. With stunning landscapes, rich history, and warm hospitality, Shetland offers a one-of-a-kind experience that you'll cherish forever. In this blog post, we'll guide you through the essential tips for taking your caravan to Shetland, including places to pitch, and highlight some must-visit destinations on the islands.
I’m an island lass at heart. Islands run through my veins, and we were lucky enough to get the opportunity to spend some time exploring Mull recently. Islands provide an anchor to which I always return; they feel familiar and restorative – like home. The ever-present sea offers security and constancy in a fast-paced world. Islands allow me to slow down and breathe.
We spent our week with Mull Holiday Cottages, our trip coinciding with some of the best summer weather so far. Under the blue skies and turquoise waters of Mull, I was keen to explore these Inner Hebridean islands.
For this island adventure, we travelled to Mull. Mull is part of the Inner Hebrides and sits off the west coast of Scotland, with Islay, Jura and Colonsay to the south, Kerrera and Lismore to the east, Coll and Tiree to the west, and the uninhabited Treshnish Isles and Staffa. Mull is an island known for its wildlife, scenery and fascinating geology; it shares much of its allure with Shetland, yet is distinct and different in many ways, as we were to discover.
A few weeks ago, we were invited to come and stay at Shetland Glamping’s beautiful new pods at Rerwick. Enjoying incredible sea views across rolling countryside and out to sea, Shetland Glamping is the hottest new accommodation offering in Shetland’s South Mainland. After opening last summer, the guest book in our pod Shalder was already bursting with rave reviews for their luxurious ‘Mega Bunker’ Glamping Pods.
Auchmithie, where we were staying, is a former fishing village that predates Arbroath by several centuries, and although many of the small cottages were built as farming cottages supporting the rich farmland stretching far inland from the coast, creating a landscape of gently rolling hills, the village is best known for its fishing heritage.
Shorehaven, where we were to spend the weekend, dates back to 1854 when Hermaness Lighthouse was built to aid navigation. Clinging to the hostile slopes of Muckle Flugga, a rocky outcrop off the north coast of Unst, Britain's most northerly lighthouse still shines a guiding light across the water to those at sea – Shorehaven forms part of the story of this iconic lighthouse.
The Peerie Neuk is a tiny “hut” in Unst and part of the tiny-house movement. This architectural and social movement advocates downsizing living spaces, simplifying interiors and living with less. As someone who resides in a constant state of clutter and chaos, kicking off my boots at the door of The Peerie Neuk was nothing short of cathartic!
"We never feel like we own it; we are custodians looking after it for the future," Rachael told me as she explained the history and her deep-seated love of the Boatman's House.
The beautiful Peerie Bugarth, a gem of a property available for holiday let in Mid Yell I often drive past traditional Shetland crofthouses and wonder what they’re like inside. These are buildings that have fascinated me since I was little. Their simple lines, symmetry, and the way they bed into the landscape almost seamlessly continues to inspire my imagination in the same – perhaps less visually attractive way – that they continue to inspire artists and poets to commi [...]
The Old Manse Holiday home is the white house in the centre, beside the former Clousta church.“The winding voes and lakes of Clousetter, are wildly disordered by the irregular encroachments of the hills among which they run. Nature, from mere rocks and water, without the assistance of a single tree, has presented ceaseless varieties of interesting scenery.” ~ Samuel Hibbert (1818)Clousta is an ‘old place’ – it has that sense, as if you’ve suddenly stumbled off the map. It’s a beaut [...]
Busta House Hotel I woke on the night and heard footsteps – it was her – I nudged my husband and said, “ssshhh, can you hear her?”I was on high alert, we were staying in the West Wing of Busta House Hotel, and I knew that this was part of the building she haunted. Busta sits, tucked away on the shores of Busta Voe, just a few miles from the village of Brae. Today it’s a three-star hotel placed in an idyllic rural location in one of Shetland’s most b [...]
Noosthamar, Unst: the perfect island escape. Photo: Joanne Anderson A few months ago, during the school’s May long weekend, we headed north to the most northerly island of Unst to stay at Noosthamar – a picturesque self-catering holiday home overlooking the sandy shores of Burrafirth.Unst is a two-ferry hop from Mainland Shetland and has a community of about 650 people. Getting to Unst is easy on the inter-island ferries that serve the isles and are operated by the Shetland I [...]
The Lodge in Fetlar; the perfect rural retreat in Shetland. In early August we stayed in an award-winning self-catering cottage in Fetlar. The Lodge sits tucked above the shore, overlooking Lambhoga, and won the 2019 Lux Life’s most Tranquil Accommodation award. And wow, what a spot. As you drive into Houbie, the heart of the island, The Lodge comes into view. Nestled in the shadow of the impressive, if imposing, Leagarth House to which the Lodge was built to serve; originally as a [...]
Looking down Whalefirth, Yell Shetland is peppered with beautiful old buildings, and none are more evocative and thought-provoking than some of our old church buildings that are found dotted around the islands. Once seats of spiritual worship and ecclesiastical power, many are now privately owned and have undergone refurbishment. Varda self-catering, situated on the island of Yell, is one of these. Varda self-catering, former church for the Herra community, lovingly restored [...]
The Taing sits nestled on the edge of the striking red sands of Reawick beach on Shetland's west mainland, offering the ideal rural retreat You know when someone envelops you in a warm embrace, and you feel every ounce of stress flow from your body? That’s exactly what the Taing in Reawick does. Situated just a stone’s throw from the beach, in a quiet corner of Shetland’s west mainland, the house has been lovingly restored, the interior care [...]
East-Gate, Vidlin, the perfect retreat for a family holiday Interested in staying somewhere but not sure what to do in the local area? Let Shetland with Laurie help you. In this post, I have teamed up with Karen & Neil Hay who gave us the keys to their newly established self-catering chalet in the village of Vidlin on Shetland's east mainland and told us to explore... East-Gate self-catering chalet, Vidlin.East-Gate is a modern, new build which is fresh to Shetland's self-cate [...]
Shetlanders have always had an entrepreneurial spirit, and a make-do-and-mend attitude that has allowed them to thrive and the 18th and 19th centuries saw some of Shetland’s greatest contributions to modern medicine.
In the 18th century, smallpox would tear through communities here, killing up to one third of the population, and one man, John Williamson, made a tremendous contribution to the islands, saving thousands of lives in the process.
John Williamson, better known as Johnnie Notions, was a self-taught man. A seaman and weaver to trade, he had a keen interest in medicine. He lived in the North Mainland at a time when smallpox often ripped through communities, brought in by seamen.