9 things to do in Papa Westray
Knap of Howar
This post was written in collaboration with Orkney.com, but as always, all thoughts, opinions, and musings are completely my own.
I woke with nervous anticipation to blue skies and sunshine. Anyone who knows me will know that I don’t enjoy flying, and this day’s adventure involved a hop on a small inter-island plane from Kirkwall to Papa Westray.
Papa Westray, affectionately known as Papay, is a tiny gem in Orkney’s North Isles, just a short hop across Papa Sound from Westray. It’s one of Orkney’s more remote islands, flanked by the North Atlantic to the west and the North Sea to the east, 20 miles north of Kirkwall. Papay has a thriving, “can-do” community, rich history spanning millennia, and incredible wildlife.
Orkney’s archipelago has over 70 islands, 20 of which are inhabited. Some, like Burray and South Ronaldsay, are connected by the Churchill Barriers, while others — including Westray and Papay — are reached by air or sea. We flew, booking the 09:40 flight in and the 16:50 flight back, giving us almost a full day to explore. Flights are discounted for longer stays.
The island is also accessible by ferry, operated by Orkney Ferries, though the inter-island “steamer” only visits twice weekly from Kirkwall, transporting supplies and providing a lifeline for locals. A daily passenger ferry runs between Papay and Westray, vital for schoolchildren commuting to Westray Junior High. On Papay itself, a small primary school educates half a dozen children under 12.
Papay has recently gained fame as the setting of Amy Liptrot’s memoir The Outrun (and its 2024 film adaptation). Beyond pop culture, Papay is home to the oldest excavated Neolithic houses in northwest Europe, and was one of the last UK homes of the now-extinct Great Auk. The island also holds the Guinness World Record for the world’s shortest scheduled flight — under two minutes from takeoff to touchdown.
We flew via Westray and landed on Papay’s tiny airfield: a gravel runway with a single hut serving as arrivals and departures hall. The airstrip buzzed with activity, islanders exchanging news as they waited for flights. We were greeted by Jennifer Foley, development officer for the Papay Development Trust, who kindly offered to show us around. At roughly four miles long and one mile wide, the island’s coastal walk stretches 10 miles (16 km) around the island, and can be broken into shorter walks, encompassing the central loop, the south end, and North Hill Nature Reserve.
Thanks to Jennifer and her husband Tim, who drove us between points of interest, we saw far more than we could have on foot alone, and gained invaluable insight into island life. What struck me the most was the generosity of the locals, who freely shared their time, knowledge, and expertise with us.
Once you’ve booked your trip, you’ll need a place to stay – because you’ll certainly want to spend more than just a few short hours on a day trip. Accommodation options include the community-run Papay Hostel — also home to the island pub — or a private AirBnB, if you’re looking for more privacy (and a hot tub looking out to sea!).
Accommodation
Papay Hostel and Shop
The community-run Papay Hostel offers comfortable en-suite twin, double, and family rooms, plus a large lounge, conservatory, and kitchen. Guests can access a comprehensive library with local history resources. Housed in Beltane House — a series of restored cottages originally built for farm workers — the hostel also has tent pitches and two bothys, each sleeping two.
The island’s only shop, located at the end of the hostel, stocks groceries, wines, and Orkney-produced beers and spirits. There’s also the “Papay Pub,” located within the hostel and open Saturday nights, serving local drinks.
Nistaben
For complete privacy and a hot tub with sea views, Nistaben is a renovated “but-an-ben” cottage available on AirBnB.
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9 Things to Do in Papa Westray
1. Holland Farm Museum
The largest farm on the island, Holland Farm hosts a folk life museum in a restored 19th-century bothy. Box beds, fishing and farming tools, and period artefacts give a fascinating glimpse into island life. The farm itself, visible from the road, includes a circular horse engine house, doocot, and corn drying kiln. Entry to the museum is free, and in summer, local jams, chutneys, and knitwear are sold via honesty box.
2. Knap of Howar
A short walk from Holland Farm leads to Knap of Howar, the oldest standing Neolithic houses in northwest Europe (c. 3600 BC). It was inhabited at the same time as Skara Brae on Orkney’s mainland, but was built earlier. Archaeological finds include Unstan Ware pottery, stone and bone tools, and animal bones — including the Great Auk, commemorated nearby at Fowl Craig cliffs.
3. St Boniface Kirk
A 10-minute walk along the coast from Knap of Howar brings you to St Boniface Kirk, a 12th-century church with stunning views across to Westray. Open to visitors, the kirk still hosts services, concerts, and weddings and the kirkyard houses an 11th-century hogback stone. Nearby, an eroding Iron Age broch and shell middens hint at the island’s ancient past.
4. South and North Wick Beaches
Papay’s beaches range from long sandy stretches to secluded coves. They’re ideal for sea swimming, wildlife spotting, shell collecting, and encounters with curious seals, otters, and occasionally passing whales.
5. The Kelp Store
Once central to Papay’s kelp industry, the renovated Kelp Store now houses the island’s archive, exhibitions, and community events. This industry collapsed during the Napoleonic Wars, but evidence of the industry can still be seen across the island. The Kelp Store also offers facilities for visiting yachts who frequently use the sheltered harbour in the summer months.
6. Papay Ranger Tours
Jonathan Ford, better known as the “Papay Ranger”, offers half- and full-day tours, including boat trips to Holm of Papay to explore wildlife and archaeology. A local guide is the best way to experience the island fully.
7. North Hill Nature Reserve
A stunning coastal heathland covering 206 hectares, North Hill is an SSSI due to seabird colonies and the rare Scottish primrose (Primula scotica). This extremely rare plant is only found throughout Orkney and Caithness in the north of Scotland’s mainland, and flowers throughout the summer months. The sandstone cliffs host puffins, guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, Arctic terns (known as Pickied in Orkney), and Great Skuas.
8. Orkney’s Last Great Auk
North Hill features a bronze sculpture commemorating the last Great Auk that nested here until 1813, perched atop a drystone “egg” at the bird’s nesting site. Once widespread across the North Atlantic, the flightless Great Auk was hunted to extinction by the mid-19th century.
9. Record-Breaking Flight
Finally, don’t miss the world’s shortest flight — Papay to Westray in under two minutes. We completed it in 1 minute 34 seconds and received a certificate. Be mindful not to book frivolously during summer; locals rely on these flights for essential travel.
Small island, big experiences. Papay offers history, wildlife, walks, and a community that welcomes you with warmth. Fly the world’s shortest flight, explore every corner, swim in turquoise waters, and leave with stories — and a certificate — you won’t forget. Papay may be small, but it packs a real punch!
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