A week in Mull & Iona

This blog is part of a campaign with Isle of Mull Cottages, who gifted us a stay at their stunning cottage, Heron View, in Bunessan, on the Ross of Mull, but all opinions and adventures are entirely my own.

Scotland’s islands have always fascinated me. As a child, I was weaned on Mairi Hedderwick’s Katie Morag stories, which showed islands so much like my own yet with their own distinct rhythm. Katie Morag’s stories began an island love affair that would only grow with me as the years passed and my desire to travel deepened.

For this island adventure, we travelled to Mull. Mull is part of the Inner Hebrides and sits off the west coast of Scotland, with Islay, Jura and Colonsay to the south, Kerrera and Lismore to the east, Coll and Tiree to the west, and the uninhabited Treshnish Isles and Staffa. Mull is an island known for its wildlife, scenery and fascinating geology; it shares much of its allure with Shetland, yet is distinct and different in many ways, as we were to discover.

Getting to Mull is easy, or should be, but CalMac cancelled our ferry. We discovered our ongoing travel arrangements had been thrown into disarray somewhere between Fair Isle and Orkney en route to Aberdeen on the first leg of our journey. We were due to cross from Oban to Craignure, a short 45-minute hop across the Sound of Mull. Thankfully there are several options for getting to Mull from the Mainland, and we pinned our hopes on the short 20-minute (turn up and go) crossing from Lochaline to Fishnish, an extra drive north but a shorter hop across the Sound of Mull.

After weaving our way around Loch Linnhe and arriving in the small village of Lochaline, we were in luck and, after a short ferry crossing, landed in the small port of Fishnish, Mull.

Isle of Mull Cottages had booked us to stay at the aptly named Heron View in Bunessan, a quiet little village on the Ross of Mull. Bunessan is set around the head of Loch na Láthaich and sheltered by Eilean Bán, an area with rich geology and stunning beaches to explore, and as the warm day came to a close, we settled into our cottage for the week.

We parked ourselves in the garden when we arrived, enjoying a cold beer on a hot day and soaking in the surrounding views. As the bairns found games and toys to amuse them, we sat out on the patio furniture and enjoyed watching the ducks amble around on the mirror-calm water.

Isle of Mull Cottages has several stunning properties throughout the island; you can see more here.

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Our arrival coincided with some glorious June weather, and the village, which is strung out along the water’s edge, appeared tranquil and idyllic after the long drive from Aberdeen to Lochaline.

The cottage takes its name from the resident heron often seen feeding out in the bay, and the house has reminders of its namesake all around, from the wood-carved heron that welcomes guests at the front door to the cushions and ornaments within the home. It didn’t take long to find the heron on that first night when we went for a walk after supper; the elegant bird stood, stock still, lazily awaiting the arrival of its supper.

Heron View is deceptively large, with two living rooms, one containing a wood-burning stove, a kitchen and an adjoining utility that opens out onto a paved patio area. Upstairs are two generous bedrooms – one double and one twin – with dreamy views across the water towards Bunessan.

After watching the heron, we walked around Bunessan, searching for wildflowers to press in a book. As I’d taken the bairns out of school for this trip, I promised their teachers we would keep a ‘holiday diary’. I love the islands at this time of year as the verges are alive with colour; bird’s-foot trefoil, celandine, forget me nots, clover, cuckoo flower, sunny yellow irises and ‘blink-and-you’ll-miss-them’ tormentil all providing a riot of colour under the low evening sun and long shadows of a midsummer night.

After a long day travelling and an evening pouring over maps and guidebooks, it was early to bed in anticipation of another day of sunshine and our first proper day enjoying Mull.

Trip map courtesy of Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

Day one

We awoke to the sun already high in the sky and the promise of another blisteringly hot day whispering through the curtains. There was nothing for it but to pack a picnic and head to the beach. Bunessan has a fantastic local Spar shop with everything you need packed into only a few square feet of shop space. We threw a picnic into our hiking bags, lathered on sunscreen and loaded the wetsuits into the car before heading south to Uisken Beach.

Uisken Beach with the Paps of Jura in the background

Uisken is perfect for children, with a long stretch of white sand protected by a smattering of small offshore islands. The water is safe to swim, sheltered by the islands, and very shallow. After a refreshing swim in turquoise waters that shimmered in the sun, and as the bairns busied themselves digging a ‘hot tub’, we searched the beach for the elusive cowrie shell, known in Shetland as grottie buckies; these shells are thought to bring luck to the finder and are an absolute favourite of mine. I always think twice about removing them from the beach and take a photo for posterity before scattering them back to the creatures who live on the strandline. Like me, you may wish to keep one in your purse as an old belief says that if you have one stowed in your purse, your money will never run dry!

After a day at the beach, with freckled skin sandy and pink after too long in the sun, we went to Fionnphort to the award-winning Creel Seafood Bar for supper. I had battered scallops and homemade chips, whilst Aaron went for the Langoustines, and the bairns opted for the ever-popular scampi and chip supper.

Supper at the Creel Seafood Bar, Fionnphort

Fionnphort is a busy little port where visitors to Iona are ferried back and forth across the narrow Sound of Iona. Sitting with our suppers and watching all the tired day-trippers returning from a day exploring Iona was lovely.

Day two

The following day we found ourselves back in Fionnphort and back at the Creel Seafood Bar for one of their signature scallop and black pudding breakfast rolls before boarding the ferry to Iona.

CalMac operates the Iona ferry on a ‘turn up and go’ basis. Ferries are frequent and only allow foot passengers onto the island. You must have a permit to take a car to Iona, and generally, it’s only islanders who are permitted to travel with a car, but the island is small enough that you don’t need one to enjoy the best of the island.

Iona is a quintessentially Hebridean island; it’s everything that you would expect from the Hebrides; white sand, turquoise bays and stunning landscapes. Often described as a ‘thin place’, Iona is an island where the space between this world and the next is said to be as thin as a veil. Many people describe an overwhelming sense of peace on the island and form a deep spiritual connection with Iona. I’d heard that Iona was a special place, but it wasn’t until I stepped ashore that I truly ‘got it’. Iona is incredible. Iona captures the senses and draws you inward; it’s a meditative and cathartic experience.

Our first stop was the Abbey, one of Europe’s oldest places of Christian worship. The Abbey was the focal point of the spread of Christianity throughout Scotland and marked the foundation of a monastic community by St Columba.

One of the first stops on the audio guide is Tòrr an Aba, or Hill of the Abbot, where Columba is believed to have had a writing hut where he could still keep an eye on his monks. From this little mound, I sat, contemplated and hoped to channel some of Columba’s energy and insight in the hope that it would compel me to put pen to paper and continue writing.

Sitting where Columba’s writing hut once stood

Several crosses stand proud outside the Abbey, including St Martin’s Cross, a 1,200-year-old ornately carved cross that has withstood 12 centuries of Hebridean weather and, tucked into the heart of the Abbey, the Cloister, with its arcaded walkways is a peaceful and serene haven amidst the bustle of visitors to this place of pilgrimage.

After the Abbey, we hiked the short distance up Dùn I (pronounced Dun Eee), the island’s highest point. At only 110 metres, it takes no time to get to the top, and from there, we enjoyed spectacular views across the Inner Hebrides, including Mull, Islay, Jura, Colonsay, Coll, Tiree, Staffa and the Treshnish Isles – made up of the Dutchman’s Cap, Lunga and Fladda.

From here, we walked out to the island’s north end, a fractured coastline sprinkled with glistening white sandy beaches and backed by flower-rich dunes. The White Strand of the Monks Beach (Traigh Ban nam Manach), on the northeast shore, has a bloody past – hard to believe as the sun, reflecting off the pure white sand, blinded us, and the Mediterranean temperatures invited us to strip off our heavy walking boots and cool-off in the crystal-clear waters. This was the site of a Viking raid which ended in the massacre of the resident monks.

The White Strand of the Monks Beach, Iona

We’d spent longer walking the north of the island than intended, and as our meagre picnic of crisps and Lucozade dwindled, we ambled back towards the village. We headed for The Rookery Café and Heritage Centre. By late afternoon, the Rookery had sold out of lunch, so after fueling ourselves with tea and cakes, we explored the fascinating Heritage Centre, which tells the story of Iona. The Centre is beside the parish church, in the former manse, or minister’s house, and through artefacts and photographs, tells both the human history of the island and explores the geology and natural history of this Hebridean gem.

Picking up the religious story once again, we explored the beautiful ruins of the former Nunnery, which now stands roofless in the heart of the village. The Nunnery was established around 1,200 years ago at the same time as the Abbey, and today, visitors are free to explore the ruins at leisure.

We didn’t have enough time on the island, and after a quick visit to the Iona Craft Shop and the modern home of Iona yarn, Iona Wool, we made our way back to the ferry along with the parade of tired day-trippers headed back to Mull for the evening, leaving the island quiet and peaceful once again.

Day three

On our third day, it was back to Fionnphort once again. Back in February, with fingers – and toes – crossed for good weather, I optimistically booked a tour with Staffa Tours to visit Lunga and Staffa. We were in luck; we awoke to a Hebridean sun still shining from the sky – the perfect day for a boat trip.

After a short 50-minute cruise, our first island landing was Lunga, one of the Treshnish Isles, famous for its incredible seabird colonies. The island itself is now uninhabited, and the first thing we did was to take the opposite path to the rest of the group, who were hurriedly scrambling towards the puffins to see the ruins of the homes people occupied until the 19th century when the island was abandoned to the birds.

Lunga was fascinating, and after striding back through the brambles, listening to storm petrels in the stone walls along the way, we headed to the seabird colonies where thousands of birds coexist in a chaotic cacophony of guano and noise. The stars of the cliffs, who continue to pull in visitors to the island, are the puffins who nest in burrows at the top of the cliffs. But, for me, an islander well used to seeing these inquisitive birds up close, the real treat was the razorbills that were found nesting in crevices beside the island path. It was an absolute pleasure to see these reclusive auks so close. Other auks are the guillemots who form a dense colony at the far end of the island, where we picnicked amidst auks, kittiwakes, fulmars and shags – it truly was an incredible experience.

From Lunga, we headed towards Staffa and the famous Fingal’s Cave. Along the way, our skipper spotted a humpback whale which we could observe from a safe distance as it rose from the water before sinking back down, lifting its tail clear of the water.

Staffa is geologically fascinating, an island formed only 59 million years ago, making it a baby in geological terms, from great, towering hexagonal basalt columns formed by volcanic eruptions. Staffa’s rock profile is similar to that of the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland and, like the Causeway, has its own giant associated with the island. Fingal was the giant from which the famous Fingal’s Cave takes its name. Fingal’s Cave is known for its outstanding natural acoustics, so good is the sound that the famous composer Felix Mendelssohn was inspired to write his Hebrides Overture (1830) after a visit here.

Our tour of Lunga and Staffa took six hours, and we arrived back at the cottage sun-kissed and inspired and, after some local steaks for tea on the patio, settled down with the setting sun and some cold beers.

Day four

Having spent most of our trip exploring the Ross of Mull and surrounding islands, we rose early on day four and headed north towards Tobermory. It takes longer than expected to drive in Mull as only two small sections of the road are double, so the 50-mile journey from Bunessan to Tobermory takes around an hour and a half. We headed straight for the Glass Barn, the home of Isle of Mull Cheese, where Shelagh gave us a tour of the farm and all their various business ventures, including the cheese and spirit distillery. The family operates a dairy farm and makes award-winning Isle of Mull Cheddar and Hebridean Blue Cheese. After a dairy and cheese cellar tour, we sat down in the spectacular Glass Barn to tuck into a land and sea platter featuring a host of local produce from the island.

With full bellies, we went to Tobermory – Mull’s main town. This colourful fishing port was the setting for the popular children’s TV show, Balamory, and today it is a busy town with a vibrant heart. The main street, strung out along the shoreline, is alive with many small, independent shops and cafes where visitors can watch the comings and goings of the harbour.

After a quick trip to the Tobermory Distillery, makers of single malt Scotch whisky, we spent the afternoon at the Mull Aquarium, Europe’s first catch-and-release aquarium. The aquarium is fantastic for all ages who want to find out more about the sealife around Mull. Stocked with creatures brought in by local fishermen, the aquarium has a touch pool allowing visitors to handle some species and learn more about them and their habitats. It felt like a guilt-free trip, as we were safe in the knowledge that after four weeks, each animal was released back into the wild, unharmed.

After a time at the aquarium, we left Tobermory, heaving with visitors from one of the small expedition cruises that call in at the island. We headed to the stunning Calgary Bay, which boasts one of Mull’s most popular beaches.

In the evening, we headed back to Tobermory and had a lovely evening meal overlooking the harbour at Café Fish before taking the scenic west coast road between Salen and Pennyghael back to the south. This road is one of the most beautiful I’ve ever driven; along the way, we saw eagles soaring high above as the sun set to the west. Mull is known as the ‘Eagle Island’ due to the significant numbers of white-tailed and golden eagles, and we saw plenty of both on our visit!

Day five

Day five came with another cloudless sky as we set off to the Ardalanish Isle of Mull Weavers to visit the weaving mill, farm and mill shop. It was a real treat to watch the weavers at work on the old Dobcross looms, noisily producing their signature Mull tweed.

Afterwards, we ate at The Lazy Cow, near Fionnophort. This modern restaurant with panoramic views across the Mull countryside opened in July 2022 and serves up lots of local produce, and it also has a well-stocked farm shop.

In the afternoon, and with the sun still high in the sky, we went back to the beach, spending several hours exploring the ragged coastline and white sands of Fidden Bay which has a brilliant campsite for motorhomes to park up and enjoy some truly breathtaking scenic views across the sands.

After an afternoon in the sunshine, and with no desire to cook, we hopped back on the ferry to Iona and went to Ailidh for the most amazing pizza that we ate at the beach with views across to Mull.

Day six

With one last day in Mull, we packed our hiking boots and headed north to the Ulva Ferry, where Donald Munro operates the small, passenger-only ferry to the island. The service is turn up and go; you display the sign to ‘red’ to signal to the boatman that you’d like to get over to the island.

Ulva is a fascinating island; once home to a thriving community, the population dropped to six residents, raising questions about the island’s viability. Following a community buyout in 2017, more residents have moved into the island; today, the population is 11. Islanders are working hard to renovate the old houses for people to live in, hoping to attract more people to the island.

Our first stop was The Boathouse, at the head of the pier, where the owners served the most delicious menu in the most beautiful setting. We sat out in the sunshine, tucking into langoustines, mackerel pate and sandwiches for the bairns – it was magic!

Ulva is a walker’s island, and after a lazy lunch, we set off along the rough track to explore the island. We did a circular walk through the island, visiting Sheila’s Cottage, the Kirk, built by renowned engineer Thomas Telford and designed to hold a congregation of 300. Ulva, like many areas of the Highlands and Islands, was severely affected by the Highland clearances of the 19th century, which depopulated the island and never recovered. Today, the community works hard to regenerate the island and bring back housing and industry for the future. Ulva is a real success story who are reversing the trend of depopulation.

We loved our day in Ulva and were pleased to have had the opportunity to visit on such a beautiful day. We managed to do five islands during our week in Mull; Mull, Iona, Lunga, Staffa and Ulva. Each island had its own charm, and it was fascinating to find out more about the people who lived there in the past and how the islands continue to thrive, whether through regeneration, as on Ulva, spirituality, as in Iona or through the continued work of conservation groups like in Lunga. Each island was unique in its own way, and if I had to pick a favourite, I’d be at a loss to choose one.

I hope this blog has inspired you to consider a trip to Mull in the future; if you would like to book your stay, we were based in Bunessan with Isle of Mull Cottages in their stunning property, Heron View.

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Thank you so much to the people of Mull, Iona and Ulva, who welcomed us with such tremendous warmth and hospitality, and to Isle of Mull Cottages, who allowed us to visit and stay in the most refreshing of locations on the Ross of Mull.