Scottish travel blog from an islander’s perspective
Sail on Swan with Shetland with Laurie in 2020 *NOTE: DUE TO COVID-19 THESE TOURS ARE POSTPONED TILL 2021*
Swan under full sail. Photo courtesy of The Swan Trust. Shetland’s maritime past holds a big place within my heart. I come from generations of fishermen and, being a woman with no desire to go to the fishing, was probably a disappointment to my father who, although he never said it, would probably have loved to see one of his offspring join the generations who went before him at sea. That’s why when Swan, Shetland’s traditional sail-training vessel, asked me to col [...]
Sea Caves in Shetland
Da Hol's o' Scraada, Eshaness. This is a collapsed sea cave. With more than 1,700 miles of coastline to explore it is no surprise that the shores around Shetland have amongst the most dramatic coastal scenery in Britain. With the second-highest sea cliffs in the UK, more caves than you can shake a stick at and natural arches to rival the Arc de Triomphe, it’s little wonder that Shetland is a bucket-list goal for those in search of a bit of adventure. This blog post is a bit of [...]
Depending on the sea: George Arthur Fullerton (1863-1914)
Granny Tam's beach with the ruins of their house behind it, on the now-uninhabited island of Papa. We are our ancestors; we are here because they lived. We are here because they nurtured our parents and generations of grandparents before us. Some of our relations we have the privilege of knowing. Some, like George Arthur Fullerton, we know because we hear about them, we’re shown grainy photographs and told that they left this world before we arrived. For me, they are the solemn [...]
The origins of Up Helly Aa and the festival today
Up Helly Aa is almost upon us and you can feel excitement levels in the town growing as people make ready for, what is to some, the social event of the year. Up Helly Aa, despite what is often believed, is not an ancient festival passed down from Norse times, but it is a festival with its roots in Shetland’s Victorian era. And like any proper Victorian soiree, theatrical pomp and ceremony was abundant…
1469: A monumental change in Shetland's rule
Scalloway Fire Festival galley burning 2017. The differences between Shetland and the rest of Scotland can be quite striking. Many visitors arrive here expecting the full Scottish treatment – the haggis, the kilts and the bagpipes – and I find myself quickly explaining to them that much of the culture and tradition in Shetland stems from the close ties that we had with Scandinavia in the past and that actually, we have only been part of Scotland for some 550 years. To un [...]
Happy New Year - a year end and new beginnings
I’ve not planted my garlic yet. To most, this isn’t very meaningful, but to me, it’s a really big deal. I’ve been self-sufficient in garlic for at least six years, and this is the first year that those hopeful little bulbs have not been carefully placed into the cold November earth. I’ve also not planted my spring tulips – another source of frustration and anguish – another stick to beat myself with over the dark months. [...]
Culswick Broch walk: Shetland's West Mainland
Culswick broch in Shetland's West Mainland. Walk distance: 3 miles (4.6km)Time taken: 3 hours The walk is a total of 3 miles (4.6 km) and we did it earlier this year by bike, but probably only at a walking pace (bearing in mind we had a two and six-year-old in tow). It’s an excellent walk and I would allow an hour each way with an additional hour for exploring the ruined houses of Sotersta, as well as the broch and spectacular coastline along the way – so to enjoy it, al [...]
Baked with love: Remembrance Day Trench Cake and a family story (a recipe)
Johnson family. Photo courtesy of Larry & Beth Sutherland. I remember my great-grandmother – Grandmam – well, she was a petite woman who was quiet and kind. She possessed a power so great; a strength of character that carried her family through life with an incredible unity. She was a quietly determined woman with a kind and gentle heart. I remember her at home, occupying a chair in the corner, surrounded by her makkin. Her seat of power and command, to me, it was her t [...]
Shetland Climate Action: Plastic
Dolphin made from beach-found plastics at Hillswick Wildlife Sanctuary. We are in a climate crisis, and it seems that everywhere we look, we are reminded of this grim reality. It can feel overwhelming, but there are things we can all do on a small, local level to abate this. This morning, before breakfast, I consumed two climate change articles and signed a petition calling for our council to declare a ‘climate crisis’. Shetland is often at the raw end of climate change [...]
Lerwick a Potted History of the Growth of a Town
Victoria Pier, Lerwick. Photo: Alexa Fitzgibbon At this time of year, when the days are getting shorter, and I undergo the daily ritual of opening all the blinds and shutters, only to close them again hours later, it makes me think about the place I call home and the town I call home: Lerwick. Commercial Street, Lerwick. Voted second best high street in Scotland this month This week Commercial Street was up for the ‘Best High Street’ in Scotland. It was voted [...]
Top 7 places to visit in Shetland
Jarlshof Prehistoric & Norse Settlement. Photo: Sophie Whitehead As you read this, I will (hopefully) be sunning my weary legs on a beach in the Adriatic, or exploring a medieval town’s backstreets. The reality is, I’ll probably be trying to rub sun cream into sandy skin, stickied with ice-cream while wondering if it’s an acceptable time to order a large glass of sauvignon blanc. As I was planning the holiday, I found myself ‘googling’ “best things to [...]
The Lodge, Fetlar: A review and itinerary for your stay
The Lodge in Fetlar; the perfect rural retreat in Shetland. In early August we stayed in an award-winning self-catering cottage in Fetlar. The Lodge sits tucked above the shore, overlooking Lambhoga, and won the 2019 Lux Life’s most Tranquil Accommodation award. And wow, what a spot. As you drive into Houbie, the heart of the island, The Lodge comes into view. Nestled in the shadow of the impressive, if imposing, Leagarth House to which the Lodge was built to serve; originally as a [...]
Caravan and camping in the North Isles
Looking across Burravoe campsite, pier and marina, Yell It seems a little strange to be writing about our summer holidays as the first of the autumn equinox storms pass through. I’m sitting in the office in an oversized cardigan cupping a steaming hot mug of tea, listening to the wind gathering strength outside. But, for now, I will transport back to the first week of the school holidays and another brilliant trip to the North Isles. As soon as school broke for summer, we jumped on [...]
A beginner's guide to Shetland: A few pointers in the right direction for those arriving.
Commercial Street, Lerwick on a busy summer day A beginners guide to ShetlandYou’ve read the travel guide? Great. You’ve seen the Shetland TV series, even better; now read a real guide from a local. Delve a little deeper into the fascinating culture of the place I call home: Shetland.Our island’s culture and tradition is unique and distinctively ‘not Scottish’ – if that’s a thing? We’ve only been part of Scotland for 550 years so don’ [...]
Private Karl Manson (1897-1917)
Private Karl Manson in full Seaforth Highlander uniform before departing for France, 1916 “If we think only on his life, and count, like the sun-dial, only the sunshine hours, we shall not let the gloom and daily fear which has so long overcast the sky for us at home, spread the dullness and dread of our last few months over our former remembrance of those who have died for us”.Haunting words, written in memory of Karl Manson, offered as comfort to his mother following his un [...]
A walk to Hermaness, Unst
A sheep at Hermaness, Unst Have you ever wondered what it would feel like to stand on the edge of the world? When I was little, I had big dreams. Dreams of sailing away to far-flung places in the world, but as I grew older, my career advisor told me that that wasn’t possible. “You can’t sail around the world,” she said. Despite this dream-shattering moment, I often find myself thinking about the vastness of the world, and our place in it, as I gaze out over the ro [...]
"What do you do in winter?": some reflections on writing and life
"I am no bird; and no net ensnares me; I am a free human being with an independent will, which I now exert to leave you." ~ Jane Eyre When I was about 12 years old, I wrote a poem about a caged bird. It wasn’t that great; nobody really liked it but me. For me, it spoke more about how I felt when I put the words on paper than what the words actually said. I dumped it, although I wish now I’d kept it as it sticks in my memory like that little grains of sand betw [...]
A guide to walking to the Lang Ayre, Northmavine
The Lang Ayre, Northmavine. Photo courtesy of Southspear Media If a Munro is a small mountain, then a Marilyn is a small Munro. And a small-small mountain is exactly what we climbed (and some) a few weeks ago. I was invited to join a lovely group of folk on a hike to the Lang Ayre in Northmavine in Shetland’s North Mainland. The Lang Ayre was a bucket list goal of mine, the long walk which takes in the small-small mountain, Ronas Hill – the highest in Shetland – is one [...]
Summer or Winter: Da Simmer Dim at 60° North
Morning light in Shetland's west mainland I often read Peedie Peebles’ Summer or Winter Book by Mairi Hedderwick to my bairns. They’ve both loved it; and so did I when it was read to me as a child. This illustrated children’s book looks at the antics of mischievous toddler, Peedie Peebles, as he goes through the trials and tribulations of being little, following him through summer and winter. Importantly, it highlights the differences between the seasons – the end [...]
Packing list: What to wear in Shetland
A summer day at the Hams of Roe (note the hat) I’m always reminded of the words of my great-grandmother when thinking about what to wear; her words still echo in my head as clear as though it was yesterday. “Nivir cast a cloot, till da munt o’ May is oot” were the words she – and many before her – said. And it’s true; we still experience cool weather in May. Wrapped up and layered up against the elements at Eshaness in winter. Phot [...]
More about Shetland
Shetland is in my blood. Visit my blog for local insights, tips and advice.
The Clift Hills are a series of low-lying hills (200-300 metres) that rise from Clift Sound. Royl Field (293m) is the largest of these hills and the second largest in Mainland Shetland (and the third largest in Shetland). During the Second World War, a de Havilland Mosquito Mk VII “DZ642” of the 627 Squadron, Royal Air Force, crashed on Royl Field on 22nd November 1944.
The Clift Hills dominate every area of the South Mainland. From Burra to the west, they rise steeply from the sea below, creating a ‘wall’ between east and west. In summer, low clouds and fog often threaten to spill over the hills from the east. When the South Mainland lies shrouded in a blanket of mist, the sun usually shines to the west, the hills providing a barrier against the encroaching sea fog.