Packing list: What to wear in Shetland

A summer day at the Hams of Roe (note the hat)

I’m always reminded of the words of my great-grandmother when thinking about what to wear; her words still echo in my head as clear as though it was yesterday. “Nivir cast a cloot, till da munt o’ May is oot” were the words she – and many before her – said. And it’s true; we still experience cool weather in May.

Wrapped up and layered up against the elements at Eshaness in winter. Photo: Sea Kayak Shetland

This is just a short – but hopefully useful – blog post. I’ve been inspired to write it by the weather, the month of June usually brings warmer weather, but not this month, we seem to have been plagued with cold and windy days, reminiscent of October. So, for those who are planning their Shetland wardrobe, here are a few pointers.

Layers

Shetlanders will often comment that we experience ‘four seasons in one day’, and anyone who has lived in (or visited) Shetland will appreciate this. So my advice is to layer up. You can always remove extra layers if necessary, but you can’t add them if you don’t have them. Our average summer temperature is 15°C and in winter this drops to 5°C (although it usually feels much cooler).

And don’t let the indicated temperature on weather forecasts fool you, the wind chill is menacing. Even I’m caught out by this on occasion. It reminded me of one bright sunny day last year. I was standing on the pier waiting for my bus and passengers, and I was fooled by the bright, cheerful sky that had greeted me as I pulled open the blinds in the morning – It masked a bitter north wind that gets right to the bone. In my jaw-chattering coldness, I was forced to dash to the LHD shop (across the road) to buy a hat, scarf, and I sent for my husband to fetch my long-janes (thermals). A quick change in the back of the bus and layers added I was good to go.

Wool

There’s a reason Shetland knitwear has been so popular here for hundreds of years – it’s bloomin’ cosy! Shetland jumpers were worn to conquer Everest in 1953, they have been to the Arctic, the Antarctic and we traded them for gin and tobacco with the Dutch fishermen. Get into one of the local knitwear shops and buy something woolly – it will keep you warm.

A rough guide of what to wear:

A good pair of boots – depending on what you plan to do, consider either hiking boots or walking trainers. I tend to wear my hiking shoes (Meindls) for short strolls and my Meindl hiking boots for longer treks.
Long-Johns (or Jane’s if you’re a lady) – I have to say, mine were an ‘unappreciated gift’ from my husband a few years ago, but I’ve since come to find them to be indispensable to my winter, spring, autumn – and sometimes summer – wardrobe here.
Windproof layers – I usually have a light jumper with a windproof zip-fronted jumper over the top (beneath my jacket). This adds another layer of protection from the elements.
Jeans – because they are just so versatile, and can be dressed up or down and worn for everything from hikes to dinners.
An oversized jumper/cardigan – these again are great for adding layers, for keeping cosy at night or for throwing over your knees in the back of the car.
A good outdoor jacket – I have a Rab jacket and wouldn’t trade it for anything. In the summer I usually trade it in for a lighter softshell waterproof – although in recent weeks I’ve broken out the Rab winter warmer again.
Hat – I usually always have a hat, again it can be tucked away if it’s unnecessary. The wind here can be chilling, and I find that my ears get sore if I don’t have a hat.
For the ladies – a dress that can be dressed up or down is a must (but remember the wind!). I’m often asked on tour if I don’t feel the cold, the truth is I do, but It’s amazing how warm a pair of long-janes can be concealed under a ‘floral summer dress’ and leggings. Looks can indeed be deceiving.
Suncream – don’t let the low temperatures fool you. Shetland is a great place for catching the sun – often too much of it. Try to remember to put on sunscreen if you’re out and about through the day as you will burn.

As for umbrellas – don’t bother, they just blow out. A visitor can always be spotted as they brandish (and battle the wind with) this foreign accessory!

And for heaven’s sake, remember to bring your camera, we have just been voted in the top 10 destinations for Best in Europe by Lonely Planet after all!