Scottish travel blog from an islander’s perspective
Understanding and respecting the Scottish Outdoor Access Code
A fire pit made using stones from historic buildings at Fethaland. Photo: David Murray This blog is a little reminder, and hopefully a helpful guide to accessing the outdoors safely and responsibly in Shetland. I first published this in the Shetland Times, our weekly newspaper, to raise awareness amongst locals. The message remains important to everyone visiting Shetland, particularly those who hope to access some of our many beauty spots.People are being urged to get-to-know the Scott [...]
Shetland with kids: A walk up the Burn of Valayre
The Burn of Valayre, Delting, Shetland. It strikes me that despite having children, I’ve never really written about things to see and do with them, so in this blog, I’ll share a short walk to do with kids. Many of the trails that I write about are long and involve carrying tired legs for a part, or all, of the way – great if you want to build muscle, not so great if you want to relax and soak in the scenery.Here in Shetland, we are just heading into the second week of [...]
Our boys need sox: How Shetland women knitted their way through the First World War (Part Three)
Over one hundred years have passed since the First World War was declared. Much of the coverage is often focused on the courage and bravery of the men who fought for King and country. The following is the final part of a three-piece research piece which I wrote a few years ago for the Wool Week Journal. It highlights the knitting that Shetland women did to aid the war effort. This essay will consider the economic impact of war on the knitwear industry in Shetland and conclude the last o [...]
Our boys need sox: How Shetland women knitted their way through the First World War (Part Two)
Over one hundred years have passed since the First World War was declared. Much of the coverage is often focused on the courage and bravery of the men who fought for King and country. The following is the second in a three-piece research piece based on research I a few years ago for the Wool Week Journal. It highlights the knitting that Shetland women did to aid the war effort. This essay will consider the organised requests for knitwear from the frontline to women in Shetland. If you miss [...]
Our boys need sox: How Shetland women knitted their way through the First World War
Over one hundred years have passed since the First World War was declared. Much of the coverage is often focused on the courage and bravery of the men who fought for King and country. The following is the first in a three-piece research piece which is based on a piece I wrote a few years ago for the Wool Week Journal. It highlights the knitting that Shetland women did to aid the war effort. This first essay will consider the personal requests for knitwear from the front-line to women in [...]
Golfing in Shetland: Asta Golf Course for visitors
Asta Golf Course, Tingwall, Shetland. Photo: Asta Golf Course. This is a blog that I’ve had in mind for some time, and with a few people still arriving in Shetland for what-would-have-been Wool Week, I thought I would share it for any woolly-husbands who are in Shetland and looking for something to fill their days.My earliest memories of golf are of a small plastic set that we had as children. We used to putt balls on a little green behind our house, in a particularly green patch [...]
The Vikings in Shetland: murder and mayhem or peaceful assimilation?
Skidbladner longship in Haroldswick, Unst. Shetland – and Orkney – were once part of the wider Viking world and many of the Norse influences can still be observed in Shetland today, mostly in the place-names they left behind with strong Norse connotations. Norn, a form of Old Norse, was spoken in Shetland until about 300 years ago. Today, many of the dialect words still in use have their roots in the Old Norse language that was spoken here at one time.The Vikings are though [...]
Lerwick Lockdown - a short film
Created by Grace Barnes, written and performed by local artists, Lerwick Lockdown is a unique portrait of an island community in Scotland during the unprecedented coronavirus national emergency.I was delighted to be asked to be part of this production capturing a moment-in-time during lockdown.SIGN UP TO MY NEWSLETTER:* Indicates required fieldEmail * I agree to receiving marketing and promotional materials * Subscribe to Newsletter [...]
Shetland’s darkest days - the clearances of the 19th-century
A ruined house at Tingon, Northmavine. The Highland clearances are known the world over for the cruelty and inhumane treatment shown to 19th-century tenant farmers who were thrown from their homes and land at the hands of their landlords – known locally as lairds. Blighting much of the Highlands and Islands during the 19th century, Shetland was no stranger to heartache at the hands of ruthless landlords and the men who did their bidding for them.Shetland was certainly not immune [...]
A walk to Tingon, Northmavine
For those who want to dive a little deeper into the wild, Tingon, Northmavine is a great place to get-away-from-it-all.Tingon is a peninsula on Shetland’s rugged north-west coast. To the west is the North Atlantic, flanked by sheer cliffs that create an imposing barrier to any boats, and to the west, the skyline is dominated by Ronas Hill, Shetland’s highest point. Walk: 4 miles (6.5 km)Terrain: Fair, walking boots/hiking trainers would be best to wearTime: 3 hours (we sp [...]
Shetland Ponies: A brief history
“A little barrel-bellied broad-backed equuleus, of a brown or black colour, that is no larger than a donkey” This is the description of a Shetland pony, written by Samuel Hibbert on his tour of Shetland in 1822 after encountering the native breed of pony, unique to Shetland.The discovery of a leg bone in excavations at Jarlshof demonstrate that ponies date back as far as the Bronze Age, some 3-4,000 years ago; evolving into a breed which is unique to Shetland. This blog wil [...]
Shetland and the Dutch-East Indiamen
Sunrise over Lerwick Harbour. Photo courtesy of Scott Goudie. Picture the scene, a still morning, quiet and milky. Perhaps a few terns making themselves known in the harbour and the sound of pans clattering from cramped kitchens as the residents rise to start another day. This was Lerwick on the morning that the first Dutch East Indiamen would sail into our history books with a bang.During the 17th century, The Netherlands was one of the most powerful trading nations in the world. With [...]
The wildflowers of the simmer dim
Wildflowers at the Crofthouse Museum. There's a lot to smile about at the moment; we've just had the simmer dim (midsummer) where we enjoy 19 hours of daylight, but, more than that, the wildflowers have been putting on a tremendous show of colour this year. Shetland is an excellent place to see wildflowers, much of the reason for this lies in the rocks beneath our feet and the unique geology that makes up the islands. Geologically complicated, Shetland's geological landscape varies [...]
Working peats in Shetland
I remember it like it was yesterday. We bairns were sitting up the hill, bottle of cream soda in hand, watching the adults work. I don’t think I’d ever been so far away from ‘adult supervision’ before and I felt nervous. Would they hear us if something went wrong? Would they remember to take us home? And with those thoughts beginning to take root in my mind, we skipped back down the hill to join our parents’.In truth, we were little more than 10 metres away [...]
Shetland with Laurie’s guide to the best of Shetland fiction
Jarlshof, the Earl's House (see The Pirate below). Photo: Sophie Whitehead I don’t know about you, but I’ve been enjoying getting through my reading list recently; and what better way to enjoy a place, without visiting, than through the pages of a well-written book.In this blog, I have selected my top 10 Shetland fiction reads which I hope you too will enjoy and savour until you can visit. So draa in a chair and start reading ... Shadowed Valley by John. J. Graham [...]
Recipe: Shetland Rhubarb Crumble
"Rhubarb is a word which rolls on the tongue with relish. It sounds both rude and absurd, and the imagination has found all sorts of uses for it."~ Mary Prior, Rhubarbaria I am an absolute rhubarb fanatic, I just love the stuff, and this is the best time of year to indulge in it. The sweet, fresh shoots are just bursting with tang and spring flavour as we move towards June. This is always the first dish I cook with rhubarb every year and I make sure that I freeze a few for winter too [...]
Shetland’s award-winning beaches
St Ninian's Isle beach in Shetland's South Mainland. Whether it’s hidden coves, sweeping sands or stony strands, Shetland has it all and, among the many beaches that make up Shetland’s breathtaking coastline, there are five that have been included in the national Beach Awards, part of the Keep Scotland Beautiful charity.These awards “are the benchmark for quality, celebrating clean, well managed and sustainable beaches.” Those selected “demonstrate excelle [...]
Seabirds and Seals: A book review
‘Whiskers’, a favourite grey seal at Shetland Catch. Photo courtesy of Jonathan Wills. With more and more of us looking to literature to get our daily break away from the news, I thought that in this blog, I would share a book review I wrote for The New Shetlander. The New Shetlander is a magazine founded in 1947 – the oldest literary and community journal in Scotland. It comes out every quarter, and the editors welcome contributions about Shetland and the world. If y [...]
The Stewart Earls’ and a brief history of Scalloway Castle
Scalloway Castle, Shetland. “Always eyes watching you and the voice enveloping you. Asleep or awake, indoors or out of doors, in the bath or bed—no escape. Nothing was your own except the few cubic centimeters in your skull.” ~ George Orwell, 1984. Following the annexation of Shetland to Scotland in 1469 (see this blog), wealthy Scottish landowners began to migrate north in search of new lands and riches. The period of the Stewart Earls is perhaps one of the most u [...]
Exceptional times (COVID-19 update) and frogs.
Sometimes in the waves of change, we find our true direction. “But Mr. Jeremy liked getting his feet wet; nobody ever scolded him, and he never caught a cold!” ~ Beatrix Potter. Namaste all, that’s what we do now, right? We don’t shake hands, we keep outside two-metres of each other, and we watch the news with growing anxiety and concern. I’m hoping to keep this blog post upbeat, I’m going to tell you about frogs, but first, I need to outline the [...]
More about Shetland
Shetland is in my blood. Visit my blog for local insights, tips and advice.
The Clift Hills are a series of low-lying hills (200-300 metres) that rise from Clift Sound. Royl Field (293m) is the largest of these hills and the second largest in Mainland Shetland (and the third largest in Shetland). During the Second World War, a de Havilland Mosquito Mk VII “DZ642” of the 627 Squadron, Royal Air Force, crashed on Royl Field on 22nd November 1944.
The Clift Hills dominate every area of the South Mainland. From Burra to the west, they rise steeply from the sea below, creating a ‘wall’ between east and west. In summer, low clouds and fog often threaten to spill over the hills from the east. When the South Mainland lies shrouded in a blanket of mist, the sun usually shines to the west, the hills providing a barrier against the encroaching sea fog.