Scottish travel blog from an islander’s perspective
A walk to the Ness of Burgi, South Mainland
Ness of Burgi fort with Sumburgh Head in the background Last weekend we visited Sumburgh Head and the fantastic new Unken Caffee. With commanding views out to sea and north across the South Mainland, it got me thinking about how past people lived and about the architecture, defensive or otherwise, that they built here.Shetland’s South Mainland, at one time, was a highly fortified area. If we rewind about 2,000 years to the Iron Age and place ourselves at Sumburgh Head, the landscap [...]
Shetland folklore series: Creatures from the sea; selkies, mermaids, beasts & serpents
Folklore was a huge part of Shetland’s society and culture in pre-modern times. Many of the folktales have been written down and, although many have now been forgotten, they can still be found in books and literature.The dramatic coastline and moorland expanses have given rise to a rich and deep-rooted culture of folklore, superstition and deeply-embedded traditions.In the past, education, literature and access to news was limited, even within the isles. Travel for pleasure was al [...]
A walk to the smugglers’ cave
The entrance to the Smugglers' Cave, Burra Winter can be a really special time to go for an adventure. On a cold, calm day, the air is crisp, and the low light casts dramatic shadows across the parched landscape. We’ve been fortunate this winter in that the ground has been frozen. If it’s not frozen, sticking to coastal routes can help keep feet warm and dry in Shetland’s (usually) wet winters.The smugglers’ cave in Burra is a brilliant walk to do with children be [...]
A winter walk around St Ninian’s Isle
St Ninian's Isle, Shetland, in winter It’s not often that January brings prolonged periods of still and frosty weather, but that’s exactly what we had here throughout January and, as we battle with homeschooling and the ever-present threat of cabin fever, it’s definitely nice to get out into the fresh air for a few hours.We recently walked around St Ninian’s Isle and, as well as being great for adults, this walk is also fantastic for anyone with children. It&rsquo [...]
Tragedy on ice
Tingwall Loch under ice, January 2021 We’ve had some incredible winter weather here in Shetland these past few weeks; still, frosty and bright, with very little wind. The usual rain that generally punctuates January, leaving the hills looking washed out under a grey sky, have been notably absent. Instead, Shetland has been dressed in a white frosting, and we’ve been enjoying long walks and snowy picnics. With this cold snap, the freshwater lochs have frozen over, and the [...]
Eight ways to enjoy Shetland from your sofa
Low light and winter skies in Shetland. As we move into the New Year, it’s difficult not to feel as though we’ve been short-changed. We all liked to imagine that 2021 would be like hitting the reset and bring a fresh start, a line in the sand of sorts. Yet, we are still fighting the same struggles we were in 2020, and coronavirus is still an ever-present threat to the world.Travel looks like it may well remain hampered into 2021 as restrictions continue and nations race to ge [...]
Sea swimming in Shetland
Shetland's underwater world. Photo: Donald Jefferies Sea swimming is a growing trend here with more and more people taking to the water and uploading their shivering selfies on social media. This year saw more people than ever embark on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day swims throughout Shetland, both with and without wetsuits for protection.Sea swimming has many benefits and, for the hardy, the thrill of swimming in no more than a swimsuit is hard to beat. Immersion in cold water b [...]
12 blogs of Shetland: Christmas special
Lerwick's picturesque waterfront during a snowy shower This blog is earlier in the week than usual but, let’s face it, who wants to read my blog on Christmas Day! – big thanks to you if you do!To celebrate the 12 days of Christmas I thought I would share some of my blog archives with you. So, over the 12 days of Christmas, I will share a new (old) blog every day from the archive. It occurred to me that I’ve been writing a fortnightly blog for almost three years and ther [...]
Shetland folklore series: Trows
Folklore was a huge part of Shetland’s society and culture in pre-modern times. Many of the folktales have been written down and, although many have now been forgotten, they can still be found in books and literature.The dramatic coastline and moorland expanses have given rise to a rich and deep-rooted culture of folklore, superstition and deeply-embedded traditions.In the past, education, literature and access to news was limited, even within the isles. Travel for pleasure was al [...]
Jewellery making with Red Houss Shetland
Jewellery making at Red Houss Shetland using sea pottery and ceramics This week, as we transition into December, I wanted to share something a bit different on the blog, and I wanted to tell you about a fantastic day out I had recently with Mike Finnie of Red Houss Shetland.It pains me to say it, but with Christmas approaching, we’re all looking for that extra special gift, idea or experience and Mike’s jewellery making workshops make a fantastic gift. Choosing presents can b [...]
Gifts from the sea
There is nothing better than coming back from the beach with sandy pockets, burgeoning with gifts from the sea but, as with everything, we must collect responsibly and always ask, ‘how will my actions impact the natural world around me?’ We are all magpies; we search for treasure, scouring the shoreline for a glittering shell or a salt-encrusted sea-worn pebble. And that’s fine, as long as we do so responsibly. ShellsShetland’s shores are a veritable treasure [...]
Understanding and respecting the Scottish Outdoor Access Code
A fire pit made using stones from historic buildings at Fethaland. Photo: David Murray This blog is a little reminder, and hopefully a helpful guide to accessing the outdoors safely and responsibly in Shetland. I first published this in the Shetland Times, our weekly newspaper, to raise awareness amongst locals. The message remains important to everyone visiting Shetland, particularly those who hope to access some of our many beauty spots.People are being urged to get-to-know the Scott [...]
Shetland with kids: A walk up the Burn of Valayre
The Burn of Valayre, Delting, Shetland. It strikes me that despite having children, I’ve never really written about things to see and do with them, so in this blog, I’ll share a short walk to do with kids. Many of the trails that I write about are long and involve carrying tired legs for a part, or all, of the way – great if you want to build muscle, not so great if you want to relax and soak in the scenery.Here in Shetland, we are just heading into the second week of [...]
The Vikings in Shetland: murder and mayhem or peaceful assimilation?
Skidbladner longship in Haroldswick, Unst. Shetland – and Orkney – were once part of the wider Viking world and many of the Norse influences can still be observed in Shetland today, mostly in the place-names they left behind with strong Norse connotations. Norn, a form of Old Norse, was spoken in Shetland until about 300 years ago. Today, many of the dialect words still in use have their roots in the Old Norse language that was spoken here at one time.The Vikings are though [...]
Shetland’s darkest days - the clearances of the 19th-century
A ruined house at Tingon, Northmavine. The Highland clearances are known the world over for the cruelty and inhumane treatment shown to 19th-century tenant farmers who were thrown from their homes and land at the hands of their landlords – known locally as lairds. Blighting much of the Highlands and Islands during the 19th century, Shetland was no stranger to heartache at the hands of ruthless landlords and the men who did their bidding for them.Shetland was certainly not immune [...]
A walk to Tingon, Northmavine
For those who want to dive a little deeper into the wild, Tingon, Northmavine is a great place to get-away-from-it-all.Tingon is a peninsula on Shetland’s rugged north-west coast. To the west is the North Atlantic, flanked by sheer cliffs that create an imposing barrier to any boats, and to the west, the skyline is dominated by Ronas Hill, Shetland’s highest point. Walk: 4 miles (6.5 km)Terrain: Fair, walking boots/hiking trainers would be best to wearTime: 3 hours (we sp [...]
The wildflowers of the simmer dim
Wildflowers at the Crofthouse Museum. There's a lot to smile about at the moment; we've just had the simmer dim (midsummer) where we enjoy 19 hours of daylight, but, more than that, the wildflowers have been putting on a tremendous show of colour this year. Shetland is an excellent place to see wildflowers, much of the reason for this lies in the rocks beneath our feet and the unique geology that makes up the islands. Geologically complicated, Shetland's geological landscape varies [...]
Working peats in Shetland
I remember it like it was yesterday. We bairns were sitting up the hill, bottle of cream soda in hand, watching the adults work. I don’t think I’d ever been so far away from ‘adult supervision’ before and I felt nervous. Would they hear us if something went wrong? Would they remember to take us home? And with those thoughts beginning to take root in my mind, we skipped back down the hill to join our parents’.In truth, we were little more than 10 metres away [...]
Shetland with Laurie’s guide to the best of Shetland fiction
Jarlshof, the Earl's House (see The Pirate below). Photo: Sophie Whitehead I don’t know about you, but I’ve been enjoying getting through my reading list recently; and what better way to enjoy a place, without visiting, than through the pages of a well-written book.In this blog, I have selected my top 10 Shetland fiction reads which I hope you too will enjoy and savour until you can visit. So draa in a chair and start reading ... Shadowed Valley by John. J. Graham [...]
Recipe: Shetland Rhubarb Crumble
"Rhubarb is a word which rolls on the tongue with relish. It sounds both rude and absurd, and the imagination has found all sorts of uses for it."~ Mary Prior, Rhubarbaria I am an absolute rhubarb fanatic, I just love the stuff, and this is the best time of year to indulge in it. The sweet, fresh shoots are just bursting with tang and spring flavour as we move towards June. This is always the first dish I cook with rhubarb every year and I make sure that I freeze a few for winter too [...]
More about Shetland
Shetland is in my blood. Visit my blog for local insights, tips and advice.
Shetlanders have always had an entrepreneurial spirit, and a make-do-and-mend attitude that has allowed them to thrive and the 18th and 19th centuries saw some of Shetland’s greatest contributions to modern medicine.
In the 18th century, smallpox would tear through communities here, killing up to one third of the population, and one man, John Williamson, made a tremendous contribution to the islands, saving thousands of lives in the process.
John Williamson, better known as Johnnie Notions, was a self-taught man. A seaman and weaver to trade, he had a keen interest in medicine. He lived in the North Mainland at a time when smallpox often ripped through communities, brought in by seamen.