Scottish travel blog from an islander’s perspective
The Galleon Girls: A story of the El Gran Grifon
El Gran Grifon wrecked on Fair Isle, Shetland Welcome back to my blog. This is a real break from my norm. What I'm giving you today – with a certain amount of trepidation – is a childrens' book I wrote when I was on maternity leave a few years ago and it's based on the wreck of the El Gran Grifon. There are very few illustrations (because I'm waiting to have it properly illustrated, and hopefully published) so you'll have to use your imaginations until I c [...]
The Spring Equinox & a Neolithic Temple (Stanydale, Shetland)
Welcoming the Spring Equinox at the Stanydale Temple Today I stepped back in time 4,000 years to the heart of Neolithic Shetland, to that moment as dawn arrives and the world stops, where just for a moment everything falls silent. The birds stop singing, the sheep grow quiet, the wind lulls and life is suspended while that first ray of sunlight makes contact with the cold earth as it awakens from winter once more. The moment where the dawn met the day and came through the door at [...]
Staying safe outdoors in Shetland
Passage down to the shore can often be dangerous. Photo Terri Leask Today I took my second dip of the year in the sea; this time it was the North Atlantic (rather than the North Sea) – and this time it was unscheduled. Shetland’s eastern seaboard is flanked by the North Sea – a marginal sea of the North Atlantic stretching across to the mainland of northwestern Europe – on the west side, our 'wild' frontier plays host to the full force of the powerful [...]
When time stopped. Shetland & the Queen of Sweden: A Shetland shipwreck
Cannon from the Queen of Sweden shipwreck, off the Knab, Lerwick. Photo: Donald Jefferies. Time stood still for me today, as I paused and listened to the wind howl down the chimney. In that moment, I was reminded of something someone told me once, a marine archaeologist, who said that one of the most moving things he had discovered on a shipwreck was a stopped clock, stopped at the precise time of loss. In a world governed by time, a stopped clock holds such profound meaning. This idea, [...]
A guide to the top 5 Shetland beaches
St Ninian's Isle tombolo Shetland’s jigsaw coastline has every sort of beach – sandy, stony and everything in between. At this time of year, the sea is a vibrant, turquoise green. It sparkles under the sun. After the cold, long and dark winter, the lengthening days bring a lightness and hope, caught in the smell of spring flapping in the warm breeze like fresh clothes hanging out to dry. I love heading to the coast at this time of year. It makes me feel alive, energised and f [...]
Getting here and away: A guide to travelling to and from Shetland
Sumburgh Head lighthouse, Shetland Shetland, a rugged and exposed island group – or archipelago – sits about 200 miles north of Aberdeen. Its western seaboard is battered by the unbridled power of the North Atlantic, while, on the east coast, the North Sea challenges the ever-changing coastline. The 1,400 miles of coastline is an ever-changing landscape, at the mercy of the sea. Put simply, Shetland is closer to the Arctic Circle than it is to the UK's urban powerhouse, Londo [...]
Happy Newerday (New Year)
An abandoned Shetland croft house on Shetland's west mainland Happy New Year! And before anyone says anything – no, I’m not late to the party – in actual fact, the rest of the world turned up too early. Today (13th January) residents on the remote island of Foula will celebrate New Year. Newerday (New Year's day) celebrations in this remote outpost of the Shetland archipelago will see the bringing in of the New Year in the company of friends and neighbour [...]
The winter solstice and a Neolithic temple
A winter sunrise in December As we approach the end of the year it’s a good time to reflect back and take stock. For me the year has been fast paced, busy – a period of discovery and growth and much in my life has changed immeasurably, for the better. I’ve started a business, got married, made friends, changed career and left behind what made me unhappy. Today (21st December) is the winter solstice, also known as midwinter, or traditionally, in the days of the Julian [...]
Geirhildr's loch - a Viking saga from Shetland
Geographically speaking, the loch at Girlsta is interesting; it's the deepest in Shetland, at about 65ft deep in places. From an ecological perspective, it's fascinating; it's the natural habitat of a unique sub-species of fish native only to Shetland; the slender char. Found in the loch, this fish is a relative of the Arctic char. The char was marooned here following the last Ice Age, about 10,000 years ago. The char adapted and changed over the years into a distinct sub-species now only found [...]
Shetland & Scotland: the same, but different
Having recently spent a few days on the Scottish mainland, I decided to investigate the differences, from a visitors point of view, between Shetland and Scotland. Of course to a visitor, this sentence alone will seem counter-intuitive because obviously, Shetland is part of Scotland so why do we speak about it as though it's a different country altogether? Anyone who follows my Instagram stories will know that we got stuck on the [...]
In the Garden of Shetland: a foray through Fetlar (part two)
A still evening at Aith skimming stones in the water. We recently spent a few nights in Fetlar, endearingly known as The Garden of Shetland. In anticipation of the schools going back, and trying to make the most of the time we had left of the holidays we booked the Aithbank Camping Böd, former home of storyteller Jeemsie Laurenson. The weather was glorious and Fetlar shone, like a glistening jewel in the North Sea, giving us the best it had to offer. In this, the second p [...]
In the Garden of Shetland: A Foray through Fetlar (part one)
We recently spent a few nights in Fetlar, endearingly known as The Garden of Shetland. In anticipation of the schools going back, and trying to make the most of the time we had left of the holidays we booked the Aithbank Camping Böd, former home of storyteller Jeemsie Laurenson. The weather was glorious and Fetlar shone, like a glistening jewel in the North Sea, giving us the best it had to offer. In this blog I will attempt to give you an account of our travels through [...]
A lowdown on the Shetland Nature Festival
As a self-confessed history lover, the Shetland Nature Festival is something which is a little out of my comfort zone but having got my hands on a programme I had a look through it to see which of the events would interest me, and/or the bairns who, as the summer holidays march on, begin to grind on the nerves of even the calmest and most patient of mothers (I tell myself assuringly). The firs [...]
Falling in love in Lerwick; a Shetland wedding
I've been a little preoccupied these last few weeks as we've been caught up in the midst of wedding madness. We got married last week, in a small ceremony in our back garden, here in Lerwick. The sun came out for the occasion and we had the most special day, together with family, celebrating. Our 'garden wedding', in the middle of town made me think of my favourite postcard from Lerwick (below) which shows a young couple, caught in a moment of passion, kissing on the 'banks broo', with the open [...]
Shetland's pubs and bars: how I ended up in the Thule on a Friday afternoon.
For anyone familiar with Lerwick, it will come as no surprise to hear that I generally try to avoid the Thule bar. Not that there is anything particularly wrong with it, the staff are friendly and... we'll just leave it at that for now. So, the reason I mention the Thule is that when I embarked on this blog I promised that I would include the good, the bad and the ugly of being a Shetland tour guide. [...]
The Storm Petrel experience at the Mousa Broch
I was once told that to experience the sound of the storm petrels within the walls of the Mousa Broch was like listening to a fairy being sick. With images from Lady Cottingham's book of childhood dancing in my mind, curiosity found me standing on the pier at Sandsayre on Wednesday night, waiting for the Mousa Boat to take us on the midnight trip to see these curious little bi [...]
More about Shetland
Shetland is in my blood. Visit my blog for local insights, tips and advice.
Shetlanders have always had an entrepreneurial spirit, and a make-do-and-mend attitude that has allowed them to thrive and the 18th and 19th centuries saw some of Shetland’s greatest contributions to modern medicine.
In the 18th century, smallpox would tear through communities here, killing up to one third of the population, and one man, John Williamson, made a tremendous contribution to the islands, saving thousands of lives in the process.
John Williamson, better known as Johnnie Notions, was a self-taught man. A seaman and weaver to trade, he had a keen interest in medicine. He lived in the North Mainland at a time when smallpox often ripped through communities, brought in by seamen.