Scottish travel blog from an islander’s perspective
Review: Shorehaven, Burrafirth, Unst review and itinerary for your stay
Shorehaven, where we were to spend the weekend, dates back to 1854 when Hermaness Lighthouse was built to aid navigation. Clinging to the hostile slopes of Muckle Flugga, a rocky outcrop off the north coast of Unst, Britain's most northerly lighthouse still shines a guiding light across the water to those at sea – Shorehaven forms part of the story of this iconic lighthouse.
Up Helly Aa – top tips for enjoying Shetland’s festival of fire
Throughout Shetland, from January to March, the islands celebrate the festival of Up Helly Aa, with 12 Fire Festival and Up Helly Aa celebrations punctuating the darkness of winter with fiery processions, Viking dress and the world-renowned all-night parties that follow the burning of a Viking longship.
9 Things to Do in a Day on Jura
Jura, known as the ‘Deer Island’, and famous as the place where George Orwell wrote his dystopian novel, 1984, and where the pop band KLF burnt one million pounds in cash in a boat shed in 1994, sits off the west coast of Scotland and is part of the Inner Hebrides. With a population of around 250, the island has a close-knit community dominated by the ever-present Paps of Jura, visible from most parts of the island and giving the island a mountainous and rugged feel.
The Peerie Neuk, Unst review and itinerary for your stay
The Peerie Neuk is a tiny “hut” in Unst and part of the tiny-house movement. This architectural and social movement advocates downsizing living spaces, simplifying interiors and living with less. As someone who resides in a constant state of clutter and chaos, kicking off my boots at the door of The Peerie Neuk was nothing short of cathartic!
Where in Shetland do you find …
Puffins are one of the Northern Isles’ best-loved summer visitors who arrive back from winter at sea to nest between April and mid-August. Sumburgh Head is the most accessible place to see them without having a lengthy walk. The nature reserves of Hermaness and Noss are also excellent places to look out for these charismatic little seabirds.
Orkney’s lesser-known Neolithic sites
Orkney is perhaps best-known for its mind-blowing Neolithic archaeology that continues to rewrite much of what we know about prehistoric Britain, so much so that, in 1999, UNESCO designated World Heritage status to what has colloquially become known as the Heart of Neolithic Orkney.
The Boatman's House, Burrafirth, Unst review and itinerary for your stay
"We never feel like we own it; we are custodians looking after it for the future," Rachael told me as she explained the history and her deep-seated love of the Boatman's House.
5 things to do in Shetland in autumn
The days are changing as the seasons switch. And, like a light that’s shut off, it feels as though the dial has been turned to autumn as summer fades into memory once more. The nights are visibly darker, and the air has changed; there’s a sting in its embrace, and I feel myself turning my collar against it.Yet, despite this change, the daylight is still long enough to make the most of the fine days, and the chill in the wind isn’t enough to leave us lounging by the fir [...]
A day in Whalsay with the Heritage Centre and friends
Symbister Harbour, Whalsay Every great adventure starts with a boat, surely? It certainly feels like that as you dart north, rushing to make the ferry on time, watching the clock anxiously and praying you don't meet a tractor en route.The Whalsay ferry has an altogether different feel to the North Isles ferries; the journey is longer, and booking is strongly recommended if you want to ensure you arrive – and depart – on the ferry you've chosen. It also has a more 'Shetland' f [...]
A workshop with Island Ceramics in Yell – one of the many reasons to visit Yell
My creations from a recent Island Ceramics glazing workshop in Yell I often hear visitors say that they’re going to Unst, but they’re not stopping in Yell; they’re just driving through the island to reach the ferry. This is a mistake. Whatever you do on your visit to Shetland, don’t make the mistake of dismissing Yell, as you are guaranteed to have an excellent experience if you do choose to stay – even for just a few hours! I recently had an excellent [...]
Peerie Bugarth self-catering holiday home; an itinerary for your Yell stay.
The beautiful Peerie Bugarth, a gem of a property available for holiday let in Mid Yell I often drive past traditional Shetland crofthouses and wonder what they’re like inside. These are buildings that have fascinated me since I was little. Their simple lines, symmetry, and the way they bed into the landscape almost seamlessly continues to inspire my imagination in the same – perhaps less visually attractive way – that they continue to inspire artists and poets to commi [...]
The Old Manse Holiday Home, Clousta: A review of our stay and your own West Mainland itinerary
The Old Manse Holiday home is the white house in the centre, beside the former Clousta church.“The winding voes and lakes of Clousetter, are wildly disordered by the irregular encroachments of the hills among which they run. Nature, from mere rocks and water, without the assistance of a single tree, has presented ceaseless varieties of interesting scenery.” ~ Samuel Hibbert (1818)Clousta is an ‘old place’ – it has that sense, as if you’ve suddenly stumbled off the map. It’s a beaut [...]
30 years of Seabirds & Seals - Noss Boat tours
Impressive sights from the Gannet colony at Noss with Seabirds & Seals If you're looking to experience some of Shetland's incredible wildlife, you definitely need to add a trip to Noss to your list of things to see and do in Shetland. Joining Seabirds & Seals recently, I was able to 'act the tourist' for a morning and witness the incredible gannet colonies of Noss. The experience is an astonishing spectacle – the natural world's equivalent of a teeming seabird a [...]
7 tips for visiting Shetland
I know what it's like when planning for a holiday – so many questions and no one place where you can find the much sought after answers. I spend a lot of time answering questions online, whether on Instagram or my Patreon page. A lot of the time, it's the same questions that come up time and time again.I've done several podcasts on my Patreon page that cover many of the frequently asked questions in depth (you can see the topics covered here). The following are some of the general [...]
3 days in Speyside: a whisky lovers travel itinerary
Whisky tasting session at Cardhu distillery For a lass from Shetland, whisky seems an altogether ‘Scottish’ thing – we don’t produce whisky (yet) in Shetland, and we never really have, but that doesn’t mean we don’t have a good appreciation for the water of life.I’m leaving my island home for this blog and heading to the Scottish Mainland to tour Scotland’s famous whisky triangle in the beautiful Speyside region.I hope you enjoy this break [...]
5 reasons to visit Shetland in Spring
St Ninian's Isle, Shetland in her spring colours Sunday marks the first day of spring, and to mark this calendar milestone, I’ve been thinking about what makes spring such an exciting time of year and why you should consider a springtime break to Shetland.As the days begin to lengthen and the dark grip of winter is slowly released, shadows shorten as the sun rises higher in our northern skies, and there’s real optimism in the air. There’s an urgency to the days as peopl [...]
A weekend getaway and a walk to the Muckle Roe lighthouse
Busta House Hotel I woke on the night and heard footsteps – it was her – I nudged my husband and said, “ssshhh, can you hear her?”I was on high alert, we were staying in the West Wing of Busta House Hotel, and I knew that this was part of the building she haunted. Busta sits, tucked away on the shores of Busta Voe, just a few miles from the village of Brae. Today it’s a three-star hotel placed in an idyllic rural location in one of Shetland’s most b [...]
13 facts about Jarlshof
Late Iron Age wheelhouses at Jarlshof Jarlshof, sitting at the southernmost point of Mainland Shetland, is a fascinating archaeological site spanning some 5,000 years, outlining the various stages of human habitation in the islands. The site is complicated and complex, yet fascinating and awe-inspiring – in fact, this is my favourite site on the Mainland to guide visitors around. Jarlshof is mind-blowing. It's a site that will immediately put you in your place. It has the [...]
5 reasons to visit Shetland in winter
Shifting light in winter at Bressay Lighthouse If I had a penny for every time I was asked about winter in Shetland, I’d be a millionaire – and then some – and there are many reasons to visit, but you need to ask yourself first ‘what do I want from a visit’. If the answer is puffins, light, activities, and long hikes with a picnic, you’ll likely want to visit in summer when the days are long, and the hills are dry enough to walk anywhere. If you&r [...]
St Kilda: an island on the edge of the world
St Kilda: the edge of the world St Kilda is a weather-beaten archipelago off the west coast of Scotland, some 40 miles from the Outer Hebrides. The cluster of islands sits alone in the vast expanse of the unforgiving North Atlantic. As Britain’s most remote point, it feels like the final frontier, a wild and foreboding place that looms from the horizon, echoing noisily with the sound of hundreds of thousands of seabirds. This is the land of the seabird. Yet until 1930, it was home [...]
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Shetland is in my blood. Visit my blog for local insights, tips and advice.
Happy New Year, and thank you for coming back here to read this first blog of 2025. Who can believe it’s 2025? We’re a quarter of the way through this century. Crazy.
We had a fine festive period, very quiet, yet slowly productive in the nicest possible way. The betwixmas days brought a period of settled and still weather – unlike last year’s relentless 80mph winds that were driven in on violent easterly weather systems. The (relatively) settled weather in the final week of December saw us out and working on our drystone walls, which we’re building in the garden.